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Yes follow this thread if you’re wanting to let him brumate(make sure she’s been prepped properly!)Welcome to the forum. This should help:
Tom's Brumation Thread
Every fall we get bombarded here on the forum with all sorts of questions and problems regarding hibernation and tortoises "slowing down" for winter. The purpose of this thread is to talk about all aspects of this subject, to dispel some of the myths and mysteries, and give a "how to" list of...
not really
In that case, do your best to answer the questions above, don’t worry if you can’t answer all of them! A photo would be great
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There isnt a great deal ofYes follow this thread if you’re wanting to let him brumate(make sure she’s been prepped properly!)
However if that’s not something you’re interested in doing, if you could answer these questions that’d be great! It’ll help us advise on ways to hopefully perk him up, it’s also always good to check in on the set up with newer members to see if we’re all on the same page
What are your temperatures like all over? Ie basking temp(directly under the bulb), overall day temps(middle and cooler side), night temps?
What kind of basking bulb is being used specifically? Packaging photos are good if you have any
Do you use indoor uv? If so what type?
How’s humidity reading?
What kind of monitoring do you have?
What is his substrate?
What kind of things are you offering diet wise?
A photo of the full enclosure would be great! Along with one of your tortoise, Welcome to the forum
i will send a photo then i will answer themIn that case, do your best to answer the questions above, don’t worry if you can’t answer all of them! A photo would be great
If you don't want to brumate him, you need to provide proper conditions for him to stay awake, active and eating.
Here is what @Tom advices in his thread
"Here are steps to take if you don't want to brumate your temperate species:
1. Add bright LED lighting in the 5000-6500K color range. Lots of it. Make it look like daytime outside looks.
2. Set light timers to be on for 13-14 hours.
3. Bump all ambient temperatures up a bit.
4. Keep night temps warmer. Shoot for no lower than the 70s over night.
5. Pull the tortoise out of hiding and soak it often. Don't let it stay hidden in a cool hide box all day.
6. I usually run HO UV tubes for 2-3 hours mid day. To keep a tortoise up, I might bump them up to 6-8 hours a day."
Tom's Brumation Thread
Every fall we get bombarded here on the forum with all sorts of questions and problems regarding hibernation and tortoises "slowing down" for winter. The purpose of this thread is to talk about all aspects of this subject, to dispel some of the myths and mysteries, and give a "how to" list of...
Start with pulling him out of hiding and soaking him at least once a day. After the soak put him under the heat lamp with some food. This is the most important step.
Tom outlines the steps to take in order to tweak your set up and get your tortoise thinking it is summer. You need to make it warm and bright. This way he will stay up better.
There isnt a great deal of weeds and flowers right now in the winter in the uk. But before he slowed down i offered dandelion leaves, kale and also rocket. I also offer cuttlefish bone at all times and dust with calcium once a week.Yes follow this thread if you’re wanting to let him brumate(make sure she’s been prepped properly!)
However if that’s not something you’re interested in doing, if you could answer these questions that’d be great! It’ll help us advise on ways to hopefully perk him up, it’s also always good to check in on the set up with newer members to see if we’re all on the same page
What are your temperatures like all over? Ie basking temp(directly under the bulb), overall day temps(middle and cooler side), night temps?
What kind of basking bulb is being used specifically? Packaging photos are good if you have any
Do you use indoor uv? If so what type?
How’s humidity reading?
What kind of monitoring do you have?
What is his substrate?
What kind of things are you offering diet wise?
A photo of the full enclosure would be great! Along with one of your tortoise, Welcome to the forum
I think Littleredfootbigredheart meant by monitoring like what kind of thermometers or humidity meters you use etc. Some brands sell unreliable analog humidity meters for example.
Yeah I feel you on that! I’m from the uk too, it’s a pain during winter! I’d actually recommend getting your hands on some of this to mix in to up variety! You soak each cube in water(quantity on packet) and add some into the usual feedThere isnt a great deal of weeds and flowers right now in the winter in the uk. But before he slowed down i offered dandelion leaves, kale and also rocket. I also offer cuttlefish bone at all times and dust with calcium once a week.
For substrate i use 60% coco coir, 20% cypress mulch and 20% orchid bark. He lives in an indoor 6ft by 3ft enclosure that will be upgraded soon.
What do you mean by monitering? Do you mean weight?
I hydrate the soil and turn it over every day. The humidity is about 40%.
I was told on another forum to use a mercury vapour bulb involving both heat, uvb and light. It is the 100 w 230-240v d3 uv basking lamp by arcadia. I cant measure the temps right now because the lamp has been off for an hour now. I have a timer from 6:30 to 18:30 for 12 hours. The temps are usually about 29 degrees celcius under the bulb and 23 dehrees celcius in the cooler side and jn the middle about 26 degrees celcius. Let me know if you need any more imformation.
thankyou
Yeah this is what I meant by monitoring^^analog gauges for example can give very inaccurate readings.
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Thankyou so much. Your threads are so helpfulYeah I feel you on that! I’m from the uk too, it’s a pain during winter! I’d actually recommend getting your hands on some of this to mix in to up variety! You soak each cube in water(quantity on packet) and add some into the usual feed
View attachment 383936
Substrate sounds spot on! Got the perfect mix and humidity sounds good for his age
May I ask what kind of size you’re planning? They do ideally need as close to 8x4ft as possible if he spends most of the year in his indoor enclosure, but if space is an issue there’s a few ways to tackle this!
Yeah this is what I meant by monitoring^^analog gauges for example can give very inaccurate readings.
I would highly suggest replacing the mercury vapour bulb, there’s a few reasons they aren’t the most efficient or safest choice, for one they can concentrate the uv light into too small an area, this can cause uv hot spots. Combing both uv and heat into one bulb isn’t ideal because one, to reach your desired basking temperature directly underneath, you have to adjust the bulb height, this can then interfere with the UVI zone you’re trying to achieve. Two, with the uv timing, every other source of information will tell you 12hours of uv. This is essentially an old fashioned rule that has stuck with a lot of keepers, it stems from the presumption that once the basking light or ambient lighting is on, ie the ‘sun’, that uv must coexist the same amount of hours. Fact is, uv rays only peak for a few hours a day, anyone with a uv meter will confirm this. No tortoise is blasted with 12 hours of uv in the wild, therefore it’s not necessary in captivity.
The right uv bulbs are much more expensive to replace once their uv strength diminishes, so it’s definitely best having it on a 4 hour timer that provides them with all the uv they need, saving your bulb life.
Then some cheaper led lighting for your ambient 12 hour light cycle as well as the basking light on the same 12hrs, your ceramics will run 24/7 on a thermostat(this will make more sense if you read through the link I’ll provide below). So ultimately having both heat and uv means you can’t separate the timings of each.
Your temperatures are sounding a bit too low, directly under the basking bulb you want it to be reaching 95-100f(35-38c), the rest ranging 75-80f during the day, then 70f is fine for night, though during the winter some boost their ambient to 80f during the day and put the ambient and basking light on for 14hours instead of 12, it can trick some into thinking it’s a longer summer day. I think you’ll struggle achieving the all over 80f temp without a CHE here in the uk now it’s so cold. A CHE(ceramic heat emitter) is a none light emitting heat bulb that makes up ambient temps and provides night heat, this should run on a thermostat 24/7.
For a basking bulb, you want an incandescent floodlight, pro rep and Arcadia do them. Then for uv you want a t5 tube fluorescent bulb, I’d recommend the Arcadia prot5 kit because it comes with the reflective fitting, the smallest size will do you.
Hopefully this thread I made will be useful to look over for the indoor side of things during cold spells(should you choose not to ever brumate him) It covers correct equipment, levels, sizing, appropriately maintaining the humidity, substrates(which you already have), there’s lots of visual examples for everything and a really handy diet link to check out!
Housing adult Russian and Hermans indoors
Hello there! In this thread I’m going to include some information an example of an appropriate indoor set up for an older Herman/russian. As much as it’s encouraged to have tortoises in a safe outdoor enclosure, I understand being from the uk myself, that some climates make it difficult to...
I have seen quite a few folks say they struggle with their temperatures during winter with an open top set up, so perhaps you could have a look through these to see if any of the toppers would work for you to help trap heat in, usually it’s just for babies to maintain a higher humidity, but it can help control your temperatures a bit better
Visual inspiration
Hi guys! I’ve had some lovely messages complimenting me on my care sheets I made for all the visuals they include! That makes me so happy because as a visual learner myself, that was my goal🥰 I’ve recently had some requests for some more visual inspiration for set ups that can house babies/...
This includes some good inspiration for both indoor and out, hopefully the indoor bit is handy for you as you’re planning an upgrade, it includes a few ideas to tackle indoor space whilst still providing that all important roaming room
Enclosure inspiration
Howdy folks! Hope everyone is well! As you all know, I’m a big fan of making threads that cater more towards visual learners like myself, I’ve really been wanting to create a thread full of adult enclosure inspiration for a while now, I’ve managed to find some great references over time! I do...
Lastly, probably the most important, this one is also really good to familiarise yourself with, it’ll help you avoid the wrong bulbs(explains about the mv bulbs), substrates, housing etc, I always encourage double checking purchases on the forum too before buying
Common keeping errors
Hello everyone! I’d been a long time lurker on this site long before joining just under a year ago now, over that time I’ve seen these husbandry issues come up time and time again, sometimes with dire consequences☹️ I thought this thread might serve as a good visual guide for these common...
I really hope they help! Please do feel free to ask any further questions on anything! I think first port of call needs to be getting temps up, I’d get yourself a flood bulb, a temp gun, and get your basking temp reading right, then go from there if you’re needing the ceramic
No problem at all! Always happy to helpThankyou so much. Your threads are so helpful
Hi one more question. What should i do regarding to waking up my herman tortoise until i get the new lighting? thanksYeah I feel you on that! I’m from the uk too, it’s a pain during winter! I’d actually recommend getting your hands on some of this to mix in to up variety! You soak each cube in water(quantity on packet) and add some into the usual feed
View attachment 383936
Substrate sounds spot on! Got the perfect mix and humidity sounds good for his age
May I ask what kind of size you’re planning? They do ideally need as close to 8x4ft as possible if he spends most of the year in his indoor enclosure, but if space is an issue there’s a few ways to tackle this!
Yeah this is what I meant by monitoring^^analog gauges for example can give very inaccurate readings.
I would highly suggest replacing the mercury vapour bulb, there’s a few reasons they aren’t the most efficient or safest choice, for one they can concentrate the uv light into too small an area, this can cause uv hot spots. Combing both uv and heat into one bulb isn’t ideal because one, to reach your desired basking temperature directly underneath, you have to adjust the bulb height, this can then interfere with the UVI zone you’re trying to achieve. Two, with the uv timing, every other source of information will tell you 12hours of uv. This is essentially an old fashioned rule that has stuck with a lot of keepers, it stems from the presumption that once the basking light or ambient lighting is on, ie the ‘sun’, that uv must coexist the same amount of hours. Fact is, uv rays only peak for a few hours a day, anyone with a uv meter will confirm this. No tortoise is blasted with 12 hours of uv in the wild, therefore it’s not necessary in captivity.
The right uv bulbs are much more expensive to replace once their uv strength diminishes, so it’s definitely best having it on a 4 hour timer that provides them with all the uv they need, saving your bulb life.
Then some cheaper led lighting for your ambient 12 hour light cycle as well as the basking light on the same 12hrs, your ceramics will run 24/7 on a thermostat(this will make more sense if you read through the link I’ll provide below). So ultimately having both heat and uv means you can’t separate the timings of each.
Your temperatures are sounding a bit too low, directly under the basking bulb you want it to be reaching 95-100f(35-38c), the rest ranging 75-80f during the day, then 70f is fine for night, though during the winter some boost their ambient to 80f during the day and put the ambient and basking light on for 14hours instead of 12, it can trick some into thinking it’s a longer summer day. I think you’ll struggle achieving the all over 80f temp without a CHE here in the uk now it’s so cold. A CHE(ceramic heat emitter) is a none light emitting heat bulb that makes up ambient temps and provides night heat, this should run on a thermostat 24/7.
For a basking bulb, you want an incandescent floodlight, pro rep and Arcadia do them. Then for uv you want a t5 tube fluorescent bulb, I’d recommend the Arcadia prot5 kit because it comes with the reflective fitting, the smallest size will do you.
Hopefully this thread I made will be useful to look over for the indoor side of things during cold spells(should you choose not to ever brumate him) It covers correct equipment, levels, sizing, appropriately maintaining the humidity, substrates(which you already have), there’s lots of visual examples for everything and a really handy diet link to check out!
Housing adult Russian and Hermans indoors
Hello there! In this thread I’m going to include some information an example of an appropriate indoor set up for an older Herman/russian. As much as it’s encouraged to have tortoises in a safe outdoor enclosure, I understand being from the uk myself, that some climates make it difficult to...
I have seen quite a few folks say they struggle with their temperatures during winter with an open top set up, so perhaps you could have a look through these to see if any of the toppers would work for you to help trap heat in, usually it’s just for babies to maintain a higher humidity, but it can help control your temperatures a bit better
Visual inspiration
Hi guys! I’ve had some lovely messages complimenting me on my care sheets I made for all the visuals they include! That makes me so happy because as a visual learner myself, that was my goal🥰 I’ve recently had some requests for some more visual inspiration for set ups that can house babies/...
This includes some good inspiration for both indoor and out, hopefully the indoor bit is handy for you as you’re planning an upgrade, it includes a few ideas to tackle indoor space whilst still providing that all important roaming room
Enclosure inspiration
Howdy folks! Hope everyone is well! As you all know, I’m a big fan of making threads that cater more towards visual learners like myself, I’ve really been wanting to create a thread full of adult enclosure inspiration for a while now, I’ve managed to find some great references over time! I do...
Lastly, probably the most important, this one is also really good to familiarise yourself with, it’ll help you avoid the wrong bulbs(explains about the mv bulbs), substrates, housing etc, I always encourage double checking purchases on the forum too before buying
Common keeping errors
Hello everyone! I’d been a long time lurker on this site long before joining just under a year ago now, over that time I’ve seen these husbandry issues come up time and time again, sometimes with dire consequences☹️ I thought this thread might serve as a good visual guide for these common...
I really hope they help! Please do feel free to ask any further questions on anything! I think first port of call needs to be getting temps up, I’d get yourself a flood bulb, a temp gun, and get your basking temp reading right, then go from there if you’re needing the ceramic
Warmer temps and good lighting is going to be only only way to increase activity this time of year, maybe you could whack you’re heating up a bit until you’re sortedHi one more question. What should i do regarding to waking up my herman tortoise until i get the new lighting? thanks
thanks!Warmer temps and good lighting is going to be only only way to increase activity this time of year, maybe you could whack you’re heating up a bit until you’re sorted
