Jam7125

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Hello !
I am Jessica ! I am going to be a new owner of a little RF tortoise in the near future! I am doing my own in-depth research and I would love some recommendations and advise on what types of substrates, high calcium plants (food), water bowls, humidifiers, heating lamps , ect! Please let me know as well what other tips and tricks you have to raise a healthy RF hatchling! I am taking any and all advise !
 

wellington

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No humidifiers, orchid or fir bark for substrate also coconut coir is fine
Closed chamber with 80% humidity is need for a hatchling up to about 3 years old.
Tube fluorescent for uvb and ceramic heat emitter for heat.
Safe Plants for their sense of safety.
Please do your research on this forum or you will be finding a bunch of bad, old info that should not be used.
 

ZEROPILOT

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You should probably do a search of CLOSED CHAMBER ENCLOSURES. It's really the best way to keep a Redfoot outside of moving to south Florida or Hawaii.
Set up your enclosure beforehand. Get an ambient temperature of between 80 and 88. With 82-84 being ideal.
You also want the humidity to be over 70% 24/7.
Please check with us before you buy any expensive electronics. A lot of it isn't refundable.
Get a T5 HO 10.0 linear strip uvb light. The tube kind. Not the type that screws in. And do not get an mvb bulb. Use either a low wattage incandescent bulb and or a CHE for warmth or just a CHE. Since it can provide heat day AND night. It produces no light.
A che is a CERAMIC HEAT EMITTER btw.
I'm a little busy at the moment. But please ask away. We have quite a few very helpful and successful Redfoot keepers here.
 

Ray--Opo

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Welcome to the forum. If you stick with the up to date information here and ask questions. Some members can lead you in the right direction.
Have you selected a breeder or are you buying from a pet store?
Pet store info is no good. Not only will rhey give you wrong information on care. They will also sell you things that are not necessary or that could harm your tort.
 

Jam7125

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Jun 27, 2024
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Indiana
Welcome to the forum. If you stick with the up to date information here and ask questions. Some members can lead you in the right direction.
Have you selected a breeder or are you buying from a pet store?
Pet store info is no good. Not only will rhey give you wrong information on care. They will also sell you things that are not necessary or that could harm your tort.
I am staying far way from any pet store information for that reason and for the lack of care they have for their animals. I have a few breeders in mind but at the moment I am in the research phase on rf tortoise and their care.
What would you suggest for a closed enclosure, a terrarium or a bin ? Because I have heard that both can work
 

Ink

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I am staying far way from any pet store information for that reason and for the lack of care they have for their animals. I have a few breeders in mind but at the moment I am in the research phase on rf tortoise and their care.
What would you suggest for a closed enclosure, a terrarium or a bin ? Because I have heard that both can work
You can always check on the forum about the breeder. Most of the experts here know the best breeders.
 
Last edited:

Ray--Opo

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Like Ink said, check out breeders here also. Before committing to a breeder. Run the name of the breeder here. Members here know most of the good and bad breeders.
A Vivarium is a good choice or a bin. What you want to think about is size. A 50gal aquarium will work for awhile. If it is going to be kept indoors. A 6'x3' enclosure would be the smallest size once it full grown. With a Vivarium you want the humidity but not a soaking wet substrate. With a substrate being to wet. Your tort will be suseptible shell rot. But a good sublayer set up correctly everything should be fine.
 

Jam7125

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Joined
Jun 27, 2024
Messages
4
Location (City and/or State)
Indiana
Like Ink said, check out breeders here also. Before committing to a breeder. Run the name of the breeder here. Members here know most of the good and bad breeders.
A Vivarium is a good choice or a bin. What you want to think about is size. A 50gal aquarium will work for awhile. If it is going to be kept indoors. A 6'x3' enclosure would be the smallest size once it full grown. With a Vivarium you want the humidity but not a soaking wet substrate. With a substrate being to wet. Your tort will be suseptible shell rot. But a good sublayer set up correctly everything should be fine.
I was looking into the red foot ranch, and even looked at reviews from here! Since I am in the upper part of Indiana , the tortoise enclosure has to stay inside and for my own comfort level. How do you combat the humidity if it gets too wet ? Do you add dry substrate ? Sorry if this is a dumb question lol
 

Littleredfootbigredheart

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Hello and welcome to the forum! Can I just say I love folks like you that do in depth research on how to set up before getting the tortoise! My number one recommendation would always be get your environment and levels correct before bringing your new baby home, you’re in the absolute best place here and I hope we can all help!

I’m including some information below on how I’d set up a starter enclosure for your new little one, plus some of the correct types of equipment to use! I hope it helps!😊

If going with a light emitting heat source, use an incandescent floodlight on a 12hour timer.

However red foots aren’t necessarily a basking species coming from the forest floor, nor do they need a ‘warmer end’ and a ‘cooler end’ they thrive in a ambient temperature range of 80-86, 82-84 being optimal. To achieve this you’ll probably find it easier sticking to CHE’s (ceramic heat emitters) as your heat source, hang them evenly from one another to distribute the heat more evenly, these can run 24/7 and they need to be on a thermostat.
Then for ambient lighting, hang it so the entire enclosure is lit but provide plenty of shady spots with plants and hides cause red foots don’t like things too bright. Either get some led strip lighting or a standard screw in led in the colour range 5000-6500k from the hardware store, this needs to be on a 12hour timer.

Always avoid anything labelled halogen or mercury vapour.

For uv light provide it the form of a t5 fluorescent tube light, don’t go with compact uv bulbs, they can damage the tortoises eyes, I’d recommend the Arcadia brand cause it comes with the reflector fitting to waste no uv light, members on here also use the zoo med brand, mount it 18-21 inches from substrate, this can be on a separate 4hour timer from noon. I’ll include photos of them and how people mount them on stands made from timber.

Definitely never use any foggers/ misters, they make the air too wet causing respiratory issues and only focus of getting the top layer of substrate wet, which will leave them prone to shell rot, same with constantly spraying.

You want to aim to have the bottom layer of substrate damp, to do this pour lukewarm water into the corners, not loads but enough to dampen the entire bottom layer. To stop that top layer getting a little too dry/dusty, mix the substrate now n then, which also helps boosting humidity. I’d personally recommend orchid bark for substrate. Check your monitors and substrate to do the pours as and when needed.

To maintain humidity you need a closed chamber set up, this can be provided with a greenhouse topper, If you can’t find an exact fit for your base then place it over like the one with the white base in the photo, I’d put lining down under the base and cover though to stop condensate getting on your floor.
When making your base, just make sure the material is safe, some people get a large bookcase, lie flat and take the shelves out, some use flower beds or just make their own, for all these options I’d line with cheap pond liner, making sure the liner goes up the sides too and make sure those sides are deep enough.

Some people even hang their lighting from the greenhouse frame! Simply wrap the wire round so it’s at the height you need(check with temp gun/put thermostat in, 18-21 for uv) and secure with cable ties.

For a water dish a shallow terracotta saucer is considered safest, they have grip in the event your tortoise flips themselves, most pet store options are a known hazard.

Diet wise, red foot’s differ from most tortoise species, they’re fruit eaters and require a small amount of protein every 7-10 days. Let me know if you’d like me to pass on my list for what we personally feed ours, might give you some ideas for different varieties🙂

Ignore whatever else is in these enclosures in the photos, they’re just to give you an idea👍

I’d also always recommend getting your hands on a temp gun, they’re SO handy when setting up a new environment!

Hope to see you stick around so we can follow your journey🥰
 

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