Jgk1

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796B12F1 808B 41CA A09D 89E4D5CD91AF C976EC7F 09A5 4266 9D69 ED5AA76716EF
Hello I am new here
I recently purchased a red foot hatcling currently I am having a bit of trouble raising its basking temperature
I have a 100w heat bulb with a 15w uvb in a zoo med mini combo lamp
However I have switched my uvb bulb with a 60w red heat bulb in a effort to raise the temperature the combined 160w read in
in my two gauges in its basking temperature
75.4 (yellow zoo med)
81.3 (black exo terra)
Any help ideas or tips raising the temperature to at least 90 would be appreciated greatly

I also know it’s tank is a bit plain if you have any knowledge of small plants that are acceptable would be appreciated as it likes to try and eat plastic ones

Thanks
 

Ray--Opo

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Welcome to TFO I don't have any experience with redfoots. If you don't get many responses here go to your species on this forum and post again. I am sure there is a thread there to cover questions.
 

Ben02

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Hi as you have a glass tank I recommend putting some black tape or something like that on the bottom of the glass to prevent your tort from seeing out as she might get stressed.
 

Jgk1

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F116390D 92E9 4572 AEBC 7329A19596AB BE719722 4D58 4F92 9714 71E15EC69FB0 hello I am new here
Recently purchased a red foot hatchling I am having a bit of trouble raisin it’s basking temperature I currently have a 100w heat bulb with a 15w uvb in a zoo med mini combo lamp I have however switched my uvb with a 60w red heat bulb in a effort to raise the temperature the combined 160w read in my two gauges (40g tank)
75.4(yellow zoomed)
81.3(black exoterra)
Any help ideas or tips would be appreciated greatly

I also know it’s tank is a bit plain if you have any knowledge of any small plants that can be safely added as I had to remove all plastic ones as he tried to eat them

Thanks again
 

Jgk1

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Messages
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Welcome to TFO I don't have any experience with redfoots. If you don't get many responses here go to your species on this forum and post again. I am sure there is a thread there to cover questions.

Thank you I will give that a try
 

Jgk1

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Hi as you have a glass tank I recommend putting some black tape or something like that on the bottom of the glass to prevent your tort from seeing out as she might get stressed.
Thank you I will look into something that can be done asap
 

Minority2

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Jul 30, 2018
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Location (City and/or State)
Tortoise Hell
The person or establishment that sold you the tortoise and the equipment to go along with it did not do a good job informing you on what their needs were. I'm going to suggest a lot of replacement items because most of the equipment you're currently using may be unsafe and or not effective when compared to other alternatives.

Examples included below are just that, examples. There may be better models at better prices but I'll leave that for you to decide.

1. Enclosure size. What is the current dimensions of your current enclosure?

An open enclosure will easily allow heat to escape an enclosure. Red foot tortoises benefit greatly from a controlled closed chamber style enclosure kept at temperatures of 82-86F all day and night. Temperatures too hot or too cold will greatly affect how this species behaves.

2. Lighting. The dual lamp fixture is a very ineffective product. A larger diameter brooder lamp fixture will be cheaper, more durable, and much more effective. Example linked below:
https://www.homedepot.com/p/HDX-300-Watt-10-1-2-in-Brooder-Clamp-Work-Light-HD-303PDQ/204684496

Compact florescent bulbs like the one you have resting by the mister/fogger are known to be unsafe for tortoises. Linear florescent UV(B) reptile rated bulbs on the other hand, are safe. Example linked below:
http://www.reptilebasics.com/arcadia-forest-6-uvb/

Fine mesh grating such as the one you're currently using will physically block out UV(B) rays. The finer the grating, the less UV(B) rays go into the enclosure. 30-50% UV(B) loss is no small matter. Cutting sections out of the mesh grating will allow the linear florescent UV(B) bulb to operate as intended.

Red night bulbs are not recommended because of how it may cause a tortoise to eat their own substrate. They're also not very useful for this particular species of tortoise.

3. Heating. A single basking fixture is also optional for Red foots. Some bask, some don't. All red foots however, do require ambient day and night time heating.

Reptile basics heating panel or ceramic heat emitter paired with a thermostat will be the an effective heating setup for most indoor enclosures.
http://www.reptilebasics.com/rbi-radiant-heat-panels
http://www.reptilebasics.com/heat-emitter/
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000NZZG3S/?tag=exoticpetnetw-20

4. Water/food dish. The plastic food dishes you have are known to be drowning and flipping hazards. Clay or plastic plant saucers on the hand, are highly recommended because of their heavy weight, their uniform round edges, and multiple sizing options. A feeding tile such as a flat piece of slate, rock, or ceramic tile will keep food from falling into the substrate. Tortoises should never eat their own substrate.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Pennington-8-in-Terra-Cotta-Clay-Saucer-100043039/100333374

5. Substrate. What type of substrate are you currently using?

Substrate should be moist at all times. An open enclosure will not allow a small volume mister/fogger to achieve a 80% and over humidity level, which is standard for Red foots. Pouring water and hand mixing the substrate is going to be more effective because doing so will reach more areas the mister/fogger cannot. Occasionally mixing the substrate will also not allow water to settle to the bottom. You're going to have to do this very frequently in an open enclosure, more often than you would with a closed chamber style enclosure.

Keep at least 3 inches of substrate. More would be better but not necessary for this species of tortoise.

6. Temperature humidity measuring devices. Cheap pet branded measuring devices are not reliable nor are they accurate enough for tortoise care. An infrared temperature gun and digital food/weather branded thermometer hygrometer reader with probe will be sufficient.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01BV0YMH4/?tag=exoticpetnetw-20
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B077Y765R4/?tag=exoticpetnetw-20

7. Where was this tortoise purchased from?

8. How many times is your tortoise soaked/bathed per week?

9. What is the current humidity level of your enclosure?
 

Kapidolo Farms

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Messages
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Hi,

The biggy is that the top is open, so no matter what you do in the tank, the volume of air in the tank will be diluted by the volume of air outside the tank. Aluminum foil, plastic or a different kind of lid that is not so open will solve most temp and humidity issues.

That coil kind of UV lamp has a few kinds of problems with it. It is too intense for too small an area. I use T5 H0 straight tubes. They disperse the light over a larger area. The least expensive fixtures I've found are at ZenHydro. Those would be 2 feet long. If that is too big, Carolina Biological sells 12 in ch T5HO fixtures. The best price I have found on straight tubes is at Reptilesupply http://www.reptilesupplyco.com/ .

You might also consider putting the tank on a slight angle and having about 1/8 standing water below the substrate at the low side, Then if the lid is covered the heat lamp will make all the humidity you need.

Pothos and Spider plants work well, but the tortoise will eat them. If you get live plants be aware they should be re-potted so any residue of pesticide in the soil can be eliminated, then you still want to wait a month or so, so that whatever may be in the plant has degraded. Many people will caution against fertilizer, but the plant needs 'food' too. Just don't use the beads or a foliage application type, use the type that mixes with the water you water the plant with. Apply when the plant is NOT in the enclosure, or vary sparingly, so it does not mix with the overall substrate.

Consider looking through and reading Redfoot posts in that sub-forum.
 

ZEROPILOT

REDFOOT WRANGLER
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To ad to the good information already provided. The RED bulbs make things look red. Tortoises. Especially RF tortoises like to eat red things. So they might eat rocks, bedding and plastic plants.
You need a florescent strip uv light.
The lighting you now have is incorrect.
Most of you issues will go away once you cover the top and make a "closed chamber" enclosure. Humidity and temps will be easier to regulate.
RF need high humidity. But no bright lights and warm but hot hot. 81 to 87. IMO
A small CHE and a strip 5.0 florescent uvb is all you'll need.
The humidifier you won't need either. Yet some keepers DO use them.
 

Jgk1

New Member
Joined
Nov 1, 2018
Messages
11
Location (City and/or State)
CA
The person or establishment that sold you the tortoise and the equipment to go along with it did not do a good job informing you on what their needs were. I'm going to suggest a lot of replacement items because most of the equipment you're currently using may be unsafe and or not effective when compared to other alternatives.

Examples included below are just that, examples. There may be better models at better prices but I'll leave that for you to decide.

1. Enclosure size. What is the current dimensions of your current enclosure?

An open enclosure will easily allow heat to escape an enclosure. Red foot tortoises benefit greatly from a controlled closed chamber style enclosure kept at temperatures of 82-86F all day and night. Temperatures too hot or too cold will greatly affect how this species behaves.

2. Lighting. The dual lamp fixture is a very ineffective product. A larger diameter brooder lamp fixture will be cheaper, more durable, and much more effective. Example linked below:
https://www.homedepot.com/p/HDX-300-Watt-10-1-2-in-Brooder-Clamp-Work-Light-HD-303PDQ/204684496

Compact florescent bulbs like the one you have resting by the mister/fogger are known to be unsafe for tortoises. Linear florescent UV(B) reptile rated bulbs on the other hand, are safe. Example linked below:
http://www.reptilebasics.com/arcadia-forest-6-uvb/

Fine mesh grating such as the one you're currently using will physically block out UV(B) rays. The finer the grating, the less UV(B) rays go into the enclosure. 30-50% UV(B) loss is no small matter. Cutting sections out of the mesh grating will allow the linear florescent UV(B) bulb to operate as intended.

Red night bulbs are not recommended because of how it may cause a tortoise to eat their own substrate. They're also not very useful for this particular species of tortoise.

3. Heating. A single basking fixture is also optional for Red foots. Some bask, some don't. All red foots however, do require ambient day and night time heating.

Reptile basics heating panel or ceramic heat emitter paired with a thermostat will be the an effective heating setup for most indoor enclosures.
http://www.reptilebasics.com/rbi-radiant-heat-panels
http://www.reptilebasics.com/heat-emitter/
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000NZZG3S/?tag=exoticpetnetw-20

4. Water/food dish. The plastic food dishes you have are known to be drowning and flipping hazards. Clay or plastic plant saucers on the hand, are highly recommended because of their heavy weight, their uniform round edges, and multiple sizing options. A feeding tile such as a flat piece of slate, rock, or ceramic tile will keep food from falling into the substrate. Tortoises should never eat their own substrate.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Pennington-8-in-Terra-Cotta-Clay-Saucer-100043039/100333374

5. Substrate. What type of substrate are you currently using?

Substrate should be moist at all times. An open enclosure will not allow a small volume mister/fogger to achieve a 80% and over humidity level, which is standard for Red foots. Pouring water and hand mixing the substrate is going to be more effective because doing so will reach more areas the mister/fogger cannot. Occasionally mixing the substrate will also not allow water to settle to the bottom. You're going to have to do this very frequently in an open enclosure, more often than you would with a closed chamber style enclosure.

Keep at least 3 inches of substrate. More would be better but not necessary for this species of tortoise.

6. Temperature humidity measuring devices. Cheap pet branded measuring devices are not reliable nor are they accurate enough for tortoise care. An infrared temperature gun and digital food/weather branded thermometer hygrometer reader with probe will be sufficient.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01BV0YMH4/?tag=exoticpetnetw-20
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B077Y765R4/?tag=exoticpetnetw-20

7. Where was this tortoise purchased from?

8. How many times is your tortoise soaked/bathed per week?

9. What is the current humidity level of your enclosure?

Thank you for the information I purchased everything at a reptile show and the seller assured me he was giving me everything I needed for the care of the animal
the care sheet recieved stated

to keep tortoise at 95-100 in basking temperatures

95-99 humidity and a 3X a week soak to ensure hydration as well as food evey other day
It is a 40g tetra tank I manage to keep the humidity between 95-99 when the fogger is on max and it’s basking temperature around 80-85 I currently only use th red light bulb at night to keep the tank warm around 75-80 however am now looking for other options the substrate is zoo meds eco earth on the bottom and forest floor zoo med on top of that

I am now currently looking to redo the entire enclosure asap thanks again
 

Minority2

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Joined
Jul 30, 2018
Messages
1,059
Location (City and/or State)
Tortoise Hell
Thank you for the information I purchased everything at a reptile show and the seller assured me he was giving me everything I needed for the care of the animal
the care sheet recieved stated

to keep tortoise at 95-100 in basking temperatures

95-99 humidity and a 3X a week soak to ensure hydration as well as food evey other day
It is a 40g tetra tank I manage to keep the humidity between 95-99 when the fogger is on max and it’s basking temperature around 80-85 I currently only use th red light bulb at night to keep the tank warm around 75-80 however am now looking for other options the substrate is zoo meds eco earth on the bottom and forest floor zoo med on top of that

I am now currently looking to redo the entire enclosure asap thanks again

The breeder was incorrect. I wouldn't have had to write up such a long reply if the equipment was sufficient. It's not. Lot of overpriced junk. I say this from experience. Too bad you're not able to return most of that stuff.

Daily soakings of 20-30 minutes in warm water is highly recommended for all hatchling tortoises.

Use a better hygrometer and check different areas in the substrate to ensure that you're getting exactly the right humidity level just to be sure.

Personally I believe a larger starter enclosure would be better but the one you're currently using is in a way, fine for maybe a year.
 

Jgk1

New Member
Joined
Nov 1, 2018
Messages
11
Location (City and/or State)
CA
Here’s a care sheet I put together, if you want to give it a read-
http://aminoapps.com/p/m9tcj0
(I update it regularly, so if anyone thinks I should change something, please tell me!)

Very nice care sheet thanks a lot for that
Most of the information and products recieved from the person I got my tortoise from are incorrect thanks again
 

Jgk1

New Member
Joined
Nov 1, 2018
Messages
11
Location (City and/or State)
CA
To ad to the good information already provided. The RED bulbs make things look red. Tortoises. Especially RF tortoises like to eat red things. So they might eat rocks, bedding and plastic plants.
You need a florescent strip uv light.
The lighting you now have is incorrect.
Most of you issues will go away once you cover the top and make a "closed chamber" enclosure. Humidity and temps will be easier to regulate.
RF need high humidity. But no bright lights and warm but hot hot. 81 to 87. IMO
A small CHE and a strip 5.0 florescent uvb is all you'll need.
The humidifier you won't need either. Yet some keepers DO use them.
Thank you I am now replacing most of the equipment that came with the set up now realizing it is incorrect thanks again
 

ZEROPILOT

REDFOOT WRANGLER
Moderator
Tortoise Club
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Messages
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Location (City and/or State)
South Eastern Florida (U.S.A.)/Rock Hill S.C.
Id make a simple top out of plexiglass.
That aquarium is tall enough that you could and should mount your florescent strip to the underside. Having it inside the tank. Since uv cant pass through glass or plastic. Or screen for that matter.
 

Jgk1

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Joined
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Messages
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Location (City and/or State)
CA
Great ideas
Id make a simple top out of plexiglass.
That aquarium is tall enough that you could and should mount your florescent strip to the underside. Having it inside the tank. Since uv cant pass through glass or plastic. Or screen for that matter.
Id make a simple top out of plexiglass.
That aquarium is tall enough that you could and should mount your florescent strip to the underside. Having it inside the tank. Since uv cant pass through glass or plastic. Or screen for that matter.

I can place the fluorescent strip with a hood halfway enclosing the tank and eliminating the screen mesh cover I currently have on top
I can also try and stick it inside the tank with some sort of adhesive your input would be greatly appreciated
 

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