The End Of Pyramiding

[kastalarial]

Hi,

I am new to tortoises and just purchased my first sulcata. I already asked Tom for advice. Below are the pictures. It's 5 months old and according to the breeder he never let's his sulcatas drink water and only dip them once a week. Are there any signs of pyramiding, if so is it too late to stop it?

Sorry for the photos, I only have my iPod.

 

[dmmj]

I see very slight (to me anyways) pyramiding on the top. The best way to tell is to close your eyes and run your fingers over the top of it's shell, it should feel smooth and not bumpy.

 

[kastalarial]

Let me also add the I will religiously follow Tom's regimen on growing and misting.

Please help me understand if this is a "normal" shell of babies?

 

[kastalarial]

I see very slight (to me anyways) pyramiding on the top. The best way to tell is to close your eyes and run your fingers over the top of it's shell, it should feel smooth and not bumpy.

It feels normally smooth. I don't feel mountainy bumps. My question is, if I religiously follow Tom's regimen, will the scutes be closer at some point or is it too late to achieve that?

 

[evlinLoutries]

Just wanna share my opinion, I raised radiated, babcocki, sulcata, cherry head, indian star and they are not having a pyramiding shell at all..

Even I adopted a pyramiding one, they are not become more pyramiding..

So here's how I kept them : I gave them meal only once a day, with a limit food, not mist them, gave them warm bath once a week, gave them moderation food, and not gave them any source of heat at night,.

I don't know exactly the point that make me success to prevent pyramiding, but thats all I do..

 

[kastalarial]

Just wanna share my opinion, I raised radiated, babcocki, sulcata, cherry head, indian star and they are not having a pyramiding shell at all..

Even I adopted a pyramiding one, they are not become more pyramiding..

So here's how I kept them : I gave them meal only once a day, with a limit food, not mist them, gave them warm bath once a week, gave them moderation food, and not gave them any source of heat at night,.

I don't know exactly the point that make me success to prevent pyramiding, but thats all I do..

Do you have some pics of tortoises that you manage to prevent pyramiding? I'd love to see them.

 

[kastalarial]

Just wanna share my opinion, I raised radiated, babcocki, sulcata, cherry head, indian star and they are not having a pyramiding shell at all..

Even I adopted a pyramiding one, they are not become more pyramiding..

So here's how I kept them : I gave them meal only once a day, with a limit food, not mist them, gave them warm bath once a week, gave them moderation food, and not gave them any source of heat at night,.

I don't know exactly the point that make me success to prevent pyramiding, but thats all I do..

One more thing, since we live in the same part of the globe. Could you share to me what are you feeding your torts? Most of the plants in the western care sheets aren't available locally or very hard to find. Is it ok to feed the "kangkong" a.k.a. swamp, chinese cabbage and or sweet potato leaves?

 

[Tom]

kastalarial,

Yes, that is the start of pyramiding, and its no surprise given the way he was kept. I have seen them go from much worse than that and turn out perfectly fine with the right conditions. The little raised ridges will not disappear, but if the new growth is smooth they will start to blend in and as an adult it will hardly be noticeable. I turned mine around using the methods in the care sheet. Just remember to keep them warm day and night with all the humidity.

 

[evlinLoutries]

Do you have some pics of tortoises that you manage to prevent pyramiding? I'd love to see them.

U can see it on my thread..

 

[Yvonne G]

I think the fact that Devlin (elvinloutries) lives in Indonesia, has a lot to do with the shape of the tortoise's shell.

 

[evlinLoutries]

One more thing, since we live in the same part of the globe. Could you share to me what are you feeding your torts? Most of the plants in the western care sheets aren't available locally or very hard to find. Is it ok to feed the "kangkong" a.k.a. swamp, chinese cabbage and or sweet potato leaves?

Where were u live actually.

I fed them siomak, fumak, hibiscus flower and leafs, mulberry leafs, mustard greens, opuntia cactus, grass,.

I never fed them with kangkung (swamp), cause from the table I read, it has a negative content that may cause digestive problems on tort.. CMIIW

---

I think the fact that Devlin (elvinloutries) lives in Indonesia, has a lot to do with the shape of the tortoise's shell.

Myabe, u have a point there,,

Cause humidity in here was very acceptable for tortoise, arround 60up..

Anyway, how do u know my name? Have I ever mentioned it?

But its Devin, lol..

 

[Tom]

Yes Devin. The whole point of this thread, and the care sheet too, is to try to help people here in the US and other countries attempt to SIMULATE the tropical, warm, humid conditions that you live in every day.

 

[kastalarial]

kastalarial,

Yes, that is the start of pyramiding, and its no surprise given the way he was kept. I have seen them go from much worse than that and turn out perfectly fine with the right conditions. The little raised ridges will not disappear, but if the new growth is smooth they will start to blend in and as an adult it will hardly be noticeable. I turned mine around using the methods in the care sheet. Just remember to keep them warm day and night with all the humidity.

Kindly tell me if I am doing this right. I always make sure he has food. I mist him 10 times a day and soak him 2 times x 20 mins each. I then let him walk around at noon till 1pm and feed on grass lawn. At night I leave on an incandescent bulb because I noticed the swampy coco fiber is cooler than I hoped since it is already November.

 

[evlinLoutries]

Yes Devin. The whole point of this thread, and the care sheet too, is to try to help people here in the US and other countries attempt to SIMULATE the tropical, warm, humid conditions that you live in every day.

yeah, but at night, our temp here can be at 20Ëš C, it was at my home..

if raining it could be more cool that 20Ëš C..

 

[Tom]

kastalarial,

Yes, that is the start of pyramiding, and its no surprise given the way he was kept. I have seen them go from much worse than that and turn out perfectly fine with the right conditions. The little raised ridges will not disappear, but if the new growth is smooth they will start to blend in and as an adult it will hardly be noticeable. I turned mine around using the methods in the care sheet. Just remember to keep them warm day and night with all the humidity.

Kindly tell me if I am doing this right. I always make sure he has food. I mist him 10 times a day and soak him 2 times x 20 mins each. I then let him walk around at noon till 1pm and feed on grass lawn. At night I leave on an incandescent bulb because I noticed the swampy coco fiber is cooler than I hoped since it is already November.

I don't think there is ONE right way. There are a million variables including where you live, the conditions in YOUR house, the time of year, each individual enclosure, etc... In the past I have misted 10 times a day, but I don't find that necessary. I also don't find it harmful either. Same thing with the soaks. On a really hot day if they were out in the sun a long time, I might soak mine twice, but usually once a day gets the job done for me. As they get older and bigger, I usually cut it down to every other day or so, with some exceptions like the aforementioned hot sunny days with with long outdoor sessions here in our super dry, hot air. You will have to experiment a bit to find just the right balance for you and your situation. I'm constantly thinking about all the variables and making little tweaks here an there. Many of my adjustments are seasonal based too.

You DO need to make it dark at night for him, but still keep it warm. That one is really not debatable or variable.

 

[reighneyday]

Nap time under the lights


Venus is now 90 grams. A gain of 3-4 grams per week since I purchased her. I have followed Tom's care sheet and have pretty much made it up as I've gone along. I live in the northeast so she is inside for the winter. I mist her a couple times a day and soak her 3-4 times a week. She seems well hydrated and very happy.

The most important thing I have found is to watch your tort's body language and habits. I'm still making tweaks week by week, day by day, to the husbandry, lighting, etc. And (with any pet) making the time sacrifice to ensure you get it right.

Thanks again to all the contributors of this thread.

 

[Connie]

With all the "theories" out there---is one fact certain?-->That wild tortoises all have smoothe shells?? The problem is that capitives are the only ones with this pyamiding problem?? Could this all be STRESS related to the captive animal??????

 

[Yvonne G]

With all the "theories" out there---is one fact certain?-->That wild tortoises all have smoothe shells?? The problem is that capitives are the only ones with this pyamiding problem?? Could this all be STRESS related to the captive animal??????

Hi Connie:

Won't you take a few moments to start a new thread in the "Introductions" section and tell us a bit about yourself?

Because you're new here, you probably haven't read the thread Tom wrote citing information given to him by a man in Africa who has a huge sulcata project going on in their native land. This man has told us that baby sulcatas in Africa hatch out during wet weather in boggy/marshy areas and live in wet conditions. This gives credence to our "keep 'em moist" theory.

 

[Connie]

With all the "theories" out there---is one fact certain?-->That wild tortoises all have smoothe shells?? The problem is that capitives are the only ones with this pyamiding problem?? Could this all be STRESS related to the captive animal??????

Hi Connie:

Won't you take a few moments to start a new thread in the "Introductions" section and tell us a bit about yourself?

Because you're new here, you probably haven't read the thread Tom wrote citing information given to him by a man in Africa who has a huge sulcata project going on in their native land. This man has told us that baby sulcatas in Africa hatch out during wet weather in boggy/marshy areas and live in wet conditions. This gives credence to our "keep 'em moist" theory.

Hi Yvonne,
I also read that red foots can be found in forests (wet or damp most of the time?) but in grass lands(dry). I know nothing of any other "Breed" of tortoises for I just gotr my "Ruby" and and trying hard to find out as much as I can about red foots.
I want her to be healthy and happy but I also know that Stress can play havic on any living creature, humans included. It can lead to all sorts of disorders.. I know feather picking in birds (I have 4 parrots and 6 finches)only occurs in captive bred birds. Stress, diet and boredom plays a major there.....

---

With all the "theories" out there---is one fact certain?-->That wild tortoises all have smoothe shells?? The problem is that capitives are the only ones with this pyamiding problem?? Could this all be STRESS related to the captive animal??????

Hi Connie:

Won't you take a few moments to start a new thread in the "Introductions" section and tell us a bit about yourself?

Because you're new here, you probably haven't read the thread Tom wrote citing information given to him by a man in Africa who has a huge sulcata project going on in their native land. This man has told us that baby sulcatas in Africa hatch out during wet weather in boggy/marshy areas and live in wet conditions. This gives credence to our "keep 'em moist" theory.

I posted my introduction in the introduction area as my first post... The title is Red Foot...

 

[BrinnANDTorts]

I have some questions. I have been keeping Gupta in very high humidity for a while now (85%-91%) he has a constant water source.

The main this is that I don't mist him that much(maybe once every other day or less) Is that really really important ? I was under the impression that is wasn't that important . I thought that humidity was the main thing which I have nailed and Gupta has had really smooth growth. His shell itself isn't constantly wet.
I also stopped soaking him as much as I use to because he struggles and struggles to get out after maybe ten minutes and it makes him poop. I'm still not sure or not if its good for them to poop before their body is naturally ready so I try not to do it that much. I don't know much about it though.
I use to be able to soak him for like an hour under a light bulb at a time without him caring, now he hates it.
He use to get squirted a lot more than he does now because that was when he was in his old enclosure and i squirted it down to make it humid. In his new one its to big to squirt and squirt the whole thing so I just pour a ton of warm , warm water into the substrate and mix it all around and use a humidifier sometimes.

Should I just make him stay in his soaks and not worry about the pooping and go back to squirting him a lot?