Eye problem?

Bran

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My 8 month old redfoot has some growth or something coming out of each eye at the tear ducks. I thought it might be goop but it seems attached. I only tried wiping it slightly one time and have not tried again since it could be part of the tortoise? The tortoise seems to be eating, behaving the same. The spots started out smaller and all white but have grown slightly and are sort of yellow orange now. This has been happening about 1 week now. It doesn't seem to be affecting his eye function from what I can tell. Thanks
 

Yvonne G

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Like was said above we need to see a picture. Tortoises have a third eyelid, sort of like a membrane, that comes from the inner part of the eye where the tear duct is.
 

Tom

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My 8 month old redfoot has some growth or something coming out of each eye at the tear ducks. I thought it might be goop but it seems attached. I only tried wiping it slightly one time and have not tried again since it could be part of the tortoise? The tortoise seems to be eating, behaving the same. The spots started out smaller and all white but have grown slightly and are sort of yellow orange now. This has been happening about 1 week now. It doesn't seem to be affecting his eye function from what I can tell. Thanks
I also though of the nictitating membrane as I read your post. Pics will help.

How are you housing the baby?
What size and type enclosure?
What substrate?
What heating and lighting bulbs?
What kind of UV bulb?
What are the temperatures days and night?
What are you feeding the baby? Any protein?
 

Bran

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It's around 89 degrees in the hot spot 78 in the cold and his hide where he spends most of his time is around 84 with a constant humidity above 80. He has a 5 uvb bulb and a 75 what light as well as a heating coil that is on a thermostat to keep the temp steady. For proteinI give him moisten mazuri tortoise LS diet every other day and sometimes wax worms. Most days it is a variety of greens, white mushrooms, and every other day or three some fruit. Sprinkle calcium supplement every other day. Here are some photos of his eyes and habitat

20250327_150256.jpg20250327_150113.jpg20250327_150107.jpg20250327_150225.jpg
 

Tom

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It's around 89 degrees in the hot spot 78 in the cold and his hide where he spends most of his time is around 84 with a constant humidity above 80. He has a 5 uvb bulb and a 75 what light as well as a heating coil that is on a thermostat to keep the temp steady. For proteinI give him moisten mazuri tortoise LS diet every other day and sometimes wax worms. Most days it is a variety of greens, white mushrooms, and every other day or three some fruit. Sprinkle calcium supplement every other day. Here are some photos of his eyes and habitat
I see a double light hood over the top. Are you using a cfl type bulb for the UV? Is that the 5.0 bulb you are referring to? Those sometimes burn reptile eyes and should not be used. You need a HO T5 tube for UV.

All of the rest sounds spot on. Though there is debate about whether or not to provide a RF with a basking area. Some do and some don't.

Your substrate looks pretty wet. Keep an eye out for shell rot.

Also, open topped enclosures make it difficult to maintain the correct temps and humidity. A large closed chamber with the heating and lighting all contained inside would make it MUCH easier and better for the tortoise.
 

Tom

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Night time the lights heat and everything goes off on timer. Ambient house temp is in the mid to low 70s
Temp for a RF should remain in the 80s day and night. That might be your problem. Can you leave the CHE set on the thermostat on all the time?
 

Bran

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HO 5.0 Tube for sure. He basically has two lights going during the day which may be too much? He does like to sit partially under the 75 watt basking light just outside his hide
 

Bran

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Temp for a RF should remain in the 80s day and night. That might be your problem. Can you leave the CHE set on the thermostat on all the time?

What is the second light in the double dome?
It's a 75 what heating bulb. I found the one 100watt heating ceramic bulb was not keep the enclosure warm enough so that is the reason for the extra 75 watt light. Maybe I should get rid of the 75 watt heat light and get a stronger ceramic heater?
 

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Alex and the Redfoot

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Can you post a photo of his belly? There is a white patch on the photo - it's either calcium powder or "shell rot" (fungal infection) that Tom mentioned above.

What's the distance between UVB lamp and substrate? I suppose around 14"? With a 5.0 UVB lamp on top of the mesh UVB output can be too weak. So unlikely eye irritation is caused by the lamp. Tom's suggestion about temperatures is probably right.
 

Alex and the Redfoot

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It's a 75 what heating bulb. I found the one 100watt heating ceramic bulb was not keep the enclosure warm enough so that is the reason for the extra 75 watt light. Maybe I should get rid of the 75 watt heat light and get a stronger ceramic heater?
I would ensure first that you don't lose heat and humidity through the meshed top. I see you have tin foil in place - you may seal the edges with a sticky tape. Or you can put a plastic storage box on top.
 

Bran

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Has anyone seen these eye symptoms before? Here is a photo of his underside and where he sits in his hide unless he is fully inside. He doesn't really like to hang out in the cooler side with the cork wood hide and leaves ever except to eat because that is where I place his food.
 

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