new with specific questions (help appreciated!)

zoologymajor

Member
Joined
May 17, 2025
Messages
16
Location (City and/or State)
Tennessee
hey everyone, this is my first time posting here, so please bear with me! i have some pretty specific questions about caring for my juvenile russian tortoise, and i've spent hours reading threads on here, from the pinned care sheets to hyper-specific situational questions, yet i'm still a bit confused. i've also searched the web some, but lots of people here say that popular online advice can actually be really harmful and outdated, so i wanted to ask people with credible knowledge and experience (i also asked some questions in r/tortoise, but they sent me here hehe).

i will give some brief info at the beginning, list my questions, and then provide further backstory/context at the end if you want to read that part. thank you so much in advance for your help <3

my tortoise is a ~5-to-6-year-old juvenile male russian about 5 inches in diameter living in middle tennessee. he spent most of his life indoors, and then the past year or so in an enclosure in the garage, and then last weekend he moved into an outdoor enclosure i built for him. however, he suffered an injury and is now back in his garage enclosure while he's healing after visiting an exotic vet. TRIGGER WARNING: the backstory/context below my questions contains information about his injury and how he got it, so if you don't want to read about that part, please skip it.

question 1: what uva/uvb is best for him? i know he needs uvb, and it wasn't an issue when he got plenty of sunlight, but now i want to make sure it's absolutely perfect to help his healing process go as well as it can while he's indoors. some places have info about uva/uvb, but i've seen on this forum that uva is just a marketing scheme??? but also, uva and uvb are two different wavelengths, so i'm confused how that's a marketing scheme? anyways, this is the bulb/lamp he currently has, with 50 watts and 120 volts: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0DZBK2KQG?tag=exoticpetnetw-20 but it doesn't say anywhere on the listing or the packaging what % uva/uvb it is. he also has this 50 watt halogen basking bulb: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000KHBT12?tag=exoticpetnetw-20 in a ceramic lamp, so together they make the warm side 90-100 degrees farenheit, and the vet said 90-95 was best for his immune system right now (lowering one to increase the temperature would reduce the % of his enclosure covered by light, and the vet said around 70% of the enclosure should be covered by the lamp, so i am just using both of them together for right now). then, at night, he has this non-light-emitting heating lamp: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0DR2HPR9P?tag=exoticpetnetw-20 . am i doing okay with heating/lighting? humidity isn't an issue except for a few weeks of the year because it's tennessee and he's not in air conditioning. the vet said not to let it fall below 40%, which it almost never does anyways, but i have one of my mom's old essential oil diffusers that i just put water in for when it gets too try, and i just put it next to/in/right above his enclosure. right now it's consistently between 60-80% humidity. but also, he's a desert tortoise, so that's a bit confusing to me as well. sorry this question ended up being much more of a wall of text than i meant for it to be!!!

question 2: are there any tricks to getting him to eat/how much is normal for him to eat? he's not really been eating the past few days which is concerning on its own but also problematic because his medicine is recommended to be taken with food. i've offered him pellets ( https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002DHPBC?tag=exoticpetnetw-20 and https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00OV0WH74?tag=exoticpetnetw-20 ), foraged weeds (plantain, clover, dandelion, and fescue, with flowers, leaves, and stems, all cut up into small pieces and rinsed in water), and veggies cut up into tiny bits and rinsed in water (celery stems and leaves, cucumber, and baby carrots), all with supplements sprinkled over top ( https://www.amazon.com/dp/B094DB6F63?tag=exoticpetnetw-20 and this one my vet sold me: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0D82DPB1D?tag=exoticpetnetw-20 ), but i've yet to see him eat any of it or notice any of it gone. he's walked over it, looked at it, maybe even opened and closed his mouth, but not eaten. i've read that offering him sugary fruits could work but that it's really bad for him so i'm scared to do that. i have seen him take long drinks of water, though. over the years, i've seen him eat, but a very little bit at a time, which made sense to me since he's so small, but i want to make sure that's normal. i've fed him lettuce, cabbage, kale, and spinach before (in moderation since i know those aren't great for them), and he ate those, but, again, i don't want to give him anything that could be bad for him right now. i've offered him cut-up strawberry and watermelon in the past too but he wasn't interested. i just really want him to eat and would rather him not have to go through the potential trauma of a feeding tube :(

question 3: is there any way or possibility at all to promote scute regeneration? i've read that they can grow back but also that they can't. the vet said in his experience they never do, but that my baby at least has his youth going for him. so is there anything you guys know of that i could do to increase the chance that they might grow back? and if they don't, is there something i can do for him or give to him to stand in for the scutes? kind of like a disability aid? because i know scutes are an important protective keratin layer for tortoises, so it seems like it would be problematic for him to be missing any, but they may not grow back on their own??

okay, i'm sorry if this is too long to read, i just want to give you guys all the context you may need to answer these because your help means the world to me :) so here's some more background:

i got my tortoise from a petsmart or petco (i don't remember which) in florida when i was 15 in 2020. i know that's a horrible place to get tortoises and they don't know much about them, and i definitely regret how i cared for him in those first few months, but i can't change it. all i can control is the future, and every time i learn something i could be doing better, i change. anyways, they didn't know how old he was or what sex he was. they guessed about 6-8 months and said i'd have to wait till he was older to sex him. i did some research, and based on the v-shape of his anal scutes and pointiness of his tail, i'm pretty sure he's male (and the vet agreed).

he's had an indoor enclosure for the past 1-2 years made of solid wood walls/flooring so he can't see through it or climb out. it's 4 feet by 2 feet, which is i know is less than the minimum 8 feet by 4 feet, but it was the best i could do for him at the time. there was a reptile carpet in the bottom covered by reptile substrate and pellets. he had a rock for basking on, shallow food and water dishes, and some enrichments/decorations like a little bridge thingy and half of a fake log thing (sorry idk the technical terms for these lol).

but i learned more and knew he needed better, and that, ultimately, outdoors is ideal, so i built him an outdoor enclosure. it's about 23 feet by 12 feet with a 1-foot dig guard around the perimeter made of metal roofing sheets. the above-ground perimeter is made of cinder blocks on three sides and the side of my house on the fourth, which is made of brick. i also created a deep-shade hide for him against the side of my house using more of those metal sheets across the top, weighed down with bricks, and i closed in either side with bricks and the opening with more metal sheets, leaving a wide space for him to get inside without bumping the metal or the cinder blocks. there are 3 large bushes inside it and a couple trees outside of the enclosure that provide shade over it, but still a couple gaps for direct sunlight where i put several large rocks. there was already fescue growing there, and i planted some clover and dandelion from elsewhere in the yard. i put 3 different water dishes and his pellets + supplements in his food dish, but again he had some plants in there he could forage on. the substrate is just the ground. i didn't cover the enclosure for two reasons. 1. the area around my property has lots of woods and fields for predators flying overhead to hunt in, and he wouldn't be visible from above due to the large trees over his enclosure and 2. his enclosure is right next to our outdoor dog pen (the cinder blocks were about half a foot away from the dogs' fence, which is made of square wire mesh nailed to wooden posts) where we have a medium-sized dog and 2 large dogs, all of which thoroughly scare off any nearby birds, rabbits, etc.

[POTENTIALLY TRIGGERING CONTENT BEGINS]

he honestly seemed extremely happy with his new home and never tried to escape that i saw. i checked on him often for the first couple of days to make sure he was okay. then, on wednesday, i discovered one of the corner cinderblocks had been moved, and the gap was large enough for him to escape. i couldn't find him anywhere in his enclosure. i know he's strong, but there's no way he could move those cinder blocks, and they hadn't budged for those first days, so i honestly had no clue this was a possibility. my parents helped me look all over for him, and to my horror, my dad found him in the dog pen. he had abrasions to his forelimbs with a couple of missing scales, and most of the scutes on his carapace and plastron were gone but fortunately with no punctures into his shell.

[POTENTIALLY TRIGGERING CONTENT ENDS]

i immediately soaked him in warm water and prepared to disinfect the wounds, but my mom (a nurse and far more rational than i was in the moment) helped me find an urgent care vet i could take him to. the experience wasn't great because it wasn't an exotic vet, but they at least cleaned his wounds, injected an antibiotic, applied some silver sulfadiazine cream, and sent me home with some anti-inflammatory oral meds.

the next day, i took him to the exotic vet i mentioned throughout this post, and he further cleaned the wounds, stitched his forelimbs, and gave me more of the anti-inflammatory medication plus a different kind of anti-inflammatory medicine, antibiotics, silver sulfadiazine cream, and a new supplement. he recommended that i change his substrate to some towels so i can keep them clean and remove any potentially sharp/pokey substrate and said the next couple of weeks would be critical for preventing inflection, and then it would take several months or even years for his shell to heal. he showed me some photographs of rehabilitated tortoises and said that his coloration would come back but likely not his scutes. he also recommended that i keep his enclosure between 90-95 degrees fahrenheit for his immune system and to not let the humidity drop below 40%. he said if he continued to not eat, he'd need a feeding tube.

he has a checkup with the vet in a couple of weeks. once the vet clears that infection and any potential pokes aren't a concern anymore, i plan to move him back into his outdoor enclosure with the non-light-emitting heat lamp in his hide, the cinder blocks reinforced, metal sheets lining the dogs' enclosure so they can't see or reach him, and some sort of covering over it (probably chicken wire).

now, i know this story is very sad, and i feel horrible. my heart is truly broken. i can't stop feeling like it was my fault, even though there's no way i could've known that the dogs could get to him with the information and prior experience i was working with. i've been crying for days over how much pain he must be in and how scared he must've been. i've honestly always felt more deeply for animals than i even do for people (i've spent my life caring for dogs, cats, horses, fish, etc. and am currently entering my senior year in college as a zoology major). i know he'll never be the same. neither will i. the dogs may not have known any better, but i don't think i can ever look at them the same. but the only thing i can do for him now is provide him with the best care that i possibly can, and i am terrified of making any mistakes that could further harm him.

so, please do not be critical or condescending of me; i'm already being horrible to myself, and i was an ignorant child when i first started out. i just want to be better and do right by him going forward, which is why your answers are so so important to me. thank you for understanding and for any advice you can offer about how i'm caring for him. i am doing and will continue to do the very best i can.

i hope you have a great rest of your day/week <3
 

COmtnLady

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Welcome to the Forum.

Sorry to hear about what happened. Yikes!

Could you please post pictures of him form several angles? It is time consuming to write back and forth when a picture (several) give solid definite evidence of what is going on.

Gold star to your mom.

Don't put him back outside too soon. He needs to be warm and humid, in a safe enclosure that nothing can get to him, so inside at least until he's walking some, drinking and eating on his own, and the open wounds are fairly closed and there is a lower infection chance.

Everyone here will do their best to help with everything we can.


.
 

COmtnLady

Well-Known Member
Tortoise Club
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Keeping him warm (95F like the Vet said) and keep it humid in his enclosure (80s-90%) is really important so that his body can try to heal.
Along with the pictures, please post x-rays if you have them, and exactly which drugs and amounts.

@Yvonne G @zovick @Tom
 

zoologymajor

Member
Joined
May 17, 2025
Messages
16
Location (City and/or State)
Tennessee
Keeping him warm (95F like the Vet said) and keep it humid in his enclosure (80s-90%) is really important so that his body can try to heal.
Along with the pictures, please post x-rays if you have them, and exactly which drugs and amounts.

@Yvonne G @zovick @Tom
okay, thank you so much for answering! do you think i should start running the diffuser for him? for reference, it's 77% humidity today according to my weather app (again he's not in air conditioning), though the disc thermometers are reading 46% on one end and 65% on the other. also, is there any way to have some kind of content warning for the photos? i don't want someone to accidentally see them without consenting in case it triggers them :(

the vet offered x-rays but said it would be okay to skip for right now unless there's further issues since there were no breaches to his shell and he has normal mobility. while i watched them stitch him up etc, i told the vet that if he saw anything that made him think x rays were necessary to just let me know, but he didn't

he got 0.07mL of 0.5mg/mL meloxicam for the first two nights, and then he's had 0.04mL of 1.5 mg/mL meloxicam every night since & will continue for 12 more nights including tonight (both orally). starting friday, he's had 0.3mL of 10mg/mL compounded tramadol every other night orally & i still have 2.7mL of that left (his next dose is tonight). all of that is for pain/inflammation. for antibiotics, they also sent me home with 9 injections of 0.07mL of ceftazidime to administer every 3 days. he was already injected with that amount at the emergency vet on wednesday night, so i gave the first of those 9 injections last night (the exotic vet showed me how to on thursday with just some saline).
 

zoologymajor

Member
Joined
May 17, 2025
Messages
16
Location (City and/or State)
Tennessee
Welcome to the Forum.

Sorry to hear about what happened. Yikes!

Could you please post pictures of him form several angles? It is time consuming to write back and forth when a picture (several) give solid definite evidence of what is going on.

Gold star to your mom.

Don't put him back outside too soon. He needs to be warm and humid, in a safe enclosure that nothing can get to him, so inside at least until he's walking some, drinking and eating on his own, and the open wounds are fairly closed and there is a lower infection chance.

Everyone here will do their best to help with everything we can.


.
sorry i saw your other comment first

thank you so much for your reply!!! yes, i love my mom so much. i asked about photo content warnings in my other reply, though i'm very sorry to take extra time :(

fortunately, he is walking and drinking! also, last night i opened his mouth and inserted a tiny piece of leaf and half of a mazuri pellet one at a time, both dipped in his calcium powder. neither came back out, so i guess that's good? but i stopped after that because i didn't want to stress him out any further with somewhat force-feeding him like that. i thought maybe it would at least be better than an empty stomach and potentially stimulate his appetite. the photo shows the rest of what i offered him yesterday. i tried to keep it somewhat separated when i laid it out on his towels in case he wanted to be picky, though i haven't been able to tell that he's eaten any. however, it was just before bed, and i only turned his uv back on an hour and 45 minutes ago, so he may have just been resting overnight.

25 05 18 salad.jpg
 

zoologymajor

Member
Joined
May 17, 2025
Messages
16
Location (City and/or State)
Tennessee
Keeping him warm (95F like the Vet said) and keep it humid in his enclosure (80s-90%) is really important so that his body can try to heal.
Along with the pictures, please post x-rays if you have them, and exactly which drugs and amounts.

@Yvonne G @zovick @Tom
just in case it's helpful, here are the disc thermometer readings from the walls of his enclosure on the side with the lamps (first) and the side furthest from the lamps (second):

25 05 18 bulb side temphum 0750am.jpg

25 05 18 far side temphum 0750am.jpg

this is the reading from the CHE probe, which i have resting on his towels under both lamps (SV is "set to" while PV is the reading, and for some reason i though the % was humidity but it's actually just the lamp's power output):

25 05 18 che probe temp 0750am.jpg

these two are readings from the laser thermometer pointed at the towels near him under the lamps:

25 05 18 bulb side towel laser temp 1 of 2 0750.jpg

25 05 18 bulb side towel laser temp 2 of 2 0750.jpg

and this is a reading from the laser thermometer pointed at him:

25 05 18 shelldon laser temp 0750.jpg
 

zoologymajor

Member
Joined
May 17, 2025
Messages
16
Location (City and/or State)
Tennessee
okay, thank you so much for answering! do you think i should start running the diffuser for him? for reference, it's 77% humidity today according to my weather app (again he's not in air conditioning), though the disc thermometers are reading 46% on one end and 65% on the other. also, is there any way to have some kind of content warning for the photos? i don't want someone to accidentally see them without consenting in case it triggers them :(

the vet offered x-rays but said it would be okay to skip for right now unless there's further issues since there were no breaches to his shell and he has normal mobility. while i watched them stitch him up etc, i told the vet that if he saw anything that made him think x rays were necessary to just let me know, but he didn't

he got 0.07mL of 0.5mg/mL meloxicam for the first two nights, and then he's had 0.04mL of 1.5 mg/mL meloxicam every night since & will continue for 12 more nights including tonight (both orally). starting friday, he's had 0.3mL of 10mg/mL compounded tramadol every other night orally & i still have 2.7mL of that left (his next dose is tonight). all of that is for pain/inflammation. for antibiotics, they also sent me home with 9 injections of 0.07mL of ceftazidime to administer every 3 days. he was already injected with that amount at the emergency vet on wednesday night, so i gave the first of those 9 injections last night (the exotic vet showed me how to on thursday with just some saline).
also forgot to add that every morning and night (and before any injections) i clean his wounds with betadine diluted with water until it's tea-colored, and then i apply the silver sulfadiazine cream they gave me
 

Tom

The Dog Trainer
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Southern California
hey everyone, this is my first time posting here, so please bear with me! i have some pretty specific questions about caring for my juvenile russian tortoise, and i've spent hours reading threads on here, from the pinned care sheets to hyper-specific situational questions, yet i'm still a bit confused. i've also searched the web some, but lots of people here say that popular online advice can actually be really harmful and outdated, so i wanted to ask people with credible knowledge and experience (i also asked some questions in r/tortoise, but they sent me here hehe).

i will give some brief info at the beginning, list my questions, and then provide further backstory/context at the end if you want to read that part. thank you so much in advance for your help <3

my tortoise is a ~5-to-6-year-old juvenile male russian about 5 inches in diameter living in middle tennessee. he spent most of his life indoors, and then the past year or so in an enclosure in the garage, and then last weekend he moved into an outdoor enclosure i built for him. however, he suffered an injury and is now back in his garage enclosure while he's healing after visiting an exotic vet. TRIGGER WARNING: the backstory/context below my questions contains information about his injury and how he got it, so if you don't want to read about that part, please skip it.

question 1: what uva/uvb is best for him? i know he needs uvb, and it wasn't an issue when he got plenty of sunlight, but now i want to make sure it's absolutely perfect to help his healing process go as well as it can while he's indoors. some places have info about uva/uvb, but i've seen on this forum that uva is just a marketing scheme??? but also, uva and uvb are two different wavelengths, so i'm confused how that's a marketing scheme? anyways, this is the bulb/lamp he currently has, with 50 watts and 120 volts: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0DZBK2KQG?tag=exoticpetnetw-20 but it doesn't say anywhere on the listing or the packaging what % uva/uvb it is. he also has this 50 watt halogen basking bulb: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000KHBT12?tag=exoticpetnetw-20 in a ceramic lamp, so together they make the warm side 90-100 degrees farenheit, and the vet said 90-95 was best for his immune system right now (lowering one to increase the temperature would reduce the % of his enclosure covered by light, and the vet said around 70% of the enclosure should be covered by the lamp, so i am just using both of them together for right now). then, at night, he has this non-light-emitting heating lamp: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0DR2HPR9P?tag=exoticpetnetw-20 . am i doing okay with heating/lighting? humidity isn't an issue except for a few weeks of the year because it's tennessee and he's not in air conditioning. the vet said not to let it fall below 40%, which it almost never does anyways, but i have one of my mom's old essential oil diffusers that i just put water in for when it gets too try, and i just put it next to/in/right above his enclosure. right now it's consistently between 60-80% humidity. but also, he's a desert tortoise, so that's a bit confusing to me as well. sorry this question ended up being much more of a wall of text than i meant for it to be!!!

question 2: are there any tricks to getting him to eat/how much is normal for him to eat? he's not really been eating the past few days which is concerning on its own but also problematic because his medicine is recommended to be taken with food. i've offered him pellets ( https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002DHPBC?tag=exoticpetnetw-20 and https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00OV0WH74?tag=exoticpetnetw-20 ), foraged weeds (plantain, clover, dandelion, and fescue, with flowers, leaves, and stems, all cut up into small pieces and rinsed in water), and veggies cut up into tiny bits and rinsed in water (celery stems and leaves, cucumber, and baby carrots), all with supplements sprinkled over top ( https://www.amazon.com/dp/B094DB6F63?tag=exoticpetnetw-20 and this one my vet sold me: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0D82DPB1D?tag=exoticpetnetw-20 ), but i've yet to see him eat any of it or notice any of it gone. he's walked over it, looked at it, maybe even opened and closed his mouth, but not eaten. i've read that offering him sugary fruits could work but that it's really bad for him so i'm scared to do that. i have seen him take long drinks of water, though. over the years, i've seen him eat, but a very little bit at a time, which made sense to me since he's so small, but i want to make sure that's normal. i've fed him lettuce, cabbage, kale, and spinach before (in moderation since i know those aren't great for them), and he ate those, but, again, i don't want to give him anything that could be bad for him right now. i've offered him cut-up strawberry and watermelon in the past too but he wasn't interested. i just really want him to eat and would rather him not have to go through the potential trauma of a feeding tube :(

question 3: is there any way or possibility at all to promote scute regeneration? i've read that they can grow back but also that they can't. the vet said in his experience they never do, but that my baby at least has his youth going for him. so is there anything you guys know of that i could do to increase the chance that they might grow back? and if they don't, is there something i can do for him or give to him to stand in for the scutes? kind of like a disability aid? because i know scutes are an important protective keratin layer for tortoises, so it seems like it would be problematic for him to be missing any, but they may not grow back on their own??

okay, i'm sorry if this is too long to read, i just want to give you guys all the context you may need to answer these because your help means the world to me :) so here's some more background:

i got my tortoise from a petsmart or petco (i don't remember which) in florida when i was 15 in 2020. i know that's a horrible place to get tortoises and they don't know much about them, and i definitely regret how i cared for him in those first few months, but i can't change it. all i can control is the future, and every time i learn something i could be doing better, i change. anyways, they didn't know how old he was or what sex he was. they guessed about 6-8 months and said i'd have to wait till he was older to sex him. i did some research, and based on the v-shape of his anal scutes and pointiness of his tail, i'm pretty sure he's male (and the vet agreed).

he's had an indoor enclosure for the past 1-2 years made of solid wood walls/flooring so he can't see through it or climb out. it's 4 feet by 2 feet, which is i know is less than the minimum 8 feet by 4 feet, but it was the best i could do for him at the time. there was a reptile carpet in the bottom covered by reptile substrate and pellets. he had a rock for basking on, shallow food and water dishes, and some enrichments/decorations like a little bridge thingy and half of a fake log thing (sorry idk the technical terms for these lol).

but i learned more and knew he needed better, and that, ultimately, outdoors is ideal, so i built him an outdoor enclosure. it's about 23 feet by 12 feet with a 1-foot dig guard around the perimeter made of metal roofing sheets. the above-ground perimeter is made of cinder blocks on three sides and the side of my house on the fourth, which is made of brick. i also created a deep-shade hide for him against the side of my house using more of those metal sheets across the top, weighed down with bricks, and i closed in either side with bricks and the opening with more metal sheets, leaving a wide space for him to get inside without bumping the metal or the cinder blocks. there are 3 large bushes inside it and a couple trees outside of the enclosure that provide shade over it, but still a couple gaps for direct sunlight where i put several large rocks. there was already fescue growing there, and i planted some clover and dandelion from elsewhere in the yard. i put 3 different water dishes and his pellets + supplements in his food dish, but again he had some plants in there he could forage on. the substrate is just the ground. i didn't cover the enclosure for two reasons. 1. the area around my property has lots of woods and fields for predators flying overhead to hunt in, and he wouldn't be visible from above due to the large trees over his enclosure and 2. his enclosure is right next to our outdoor dog pen (the cinder blocks were about half a foot away from the dogs' fence, which is made of square wire mesh nailed to wooden posts) where we have a medium-sized dog and 2 large dogs, all of which thoroughly scare off any nearby birds, rabbits, etc.

[POTENTIALLY TRIGGERING CONTENT BEGINS]

he honestly seemed extremely happy with his new home and never tried to escape that i saw. i checked on him often for the first couple of days to make sure he was okay. then, on wednesday, i discovered one of the corner cinderblocks had been moved, and the gap was large enough for him to escape. i couldn't find him anywhere in his enclosure. i know he's strong, but there's no way he could move those cinder blocks, and they hadn't budged for those first days, so i honestly had no clue this was a possibility. my parents helped me look all over for him, and to my horror, my dad found him in the dog pen. he had abrasions to his forelimbs with a couple of missing scales, and most of the scutes on his carapace and plastron were gone but fortunately with no punctures into his shell.

[POTENTIALLY TRIGGERING CONTENT ENDS]

i immediately soaked him in warm water and prepared to disinfect the wounds, but my mom (a nurse and far more rational than i was in the moment) helped me find an urgent care vet i could take him to. the experience wasn't great because it wasn't an exotic vet, but they at least cleaned his wounds, injected an antibiotic, applied some silver sulfadiazine cream, and sent me home with some anti-inflammatory oral meds.

the next day, i took him to the exotic vet i mentioned throughout this post, and he further cleaned the wounds, stitched his forelimbs, and gave me more of the anti-inflammatory medication plus a different kind of anti-inflammatory medicine, antibiotics, silver sulfadiazine cream, and a new supplement. he recommended that i change his substrate to some towels so i can keep them clean and remove any potentially sharp/pokey substrate and said the next couple of weeks would be critical for preventing inflection, and then it would take several months or even years for his shell to heal. he showed me some photographs of rehabilitated tortoises and said that his coloration would come back but likely not his scutes. he also recommended that i keep his enclosure between 90-95 degrees fahrenheit for his immune system and to not let the humidity drop below 40%. he said if he continued to not eat, he'd need a feeding tube.

he has a checkup with the vet in a couple of weeks. once the vet clears that infection and any potential pokes aren't a concern anymore, i plan to move him back into his outdoor enclosure with the non-light-emitting heat lamp in his hide, the cinder blocks reinforced, metal sheets lining the dogs' enclosure so they can't see or reach him, and some sort of covering over it (probably chicken wire).

now, i know this story is very sad, and i feel horrible. my heart is truly broken. i can't stop feeling like it was my fault, even though there's no way i could've known that the dogs could get to him with the information and prior experience i was working with. i've been crying for days over how much pain he must be in and how scared he must've been. i've honestly always felt more deeply for animals than i even do for people (i've spent my life caring for dogs, cats, horses, fish, etc. and am currently entering my senior year in college as a zoology major). i know he'll never be the same. neither will i. the dogs may not have known any better, but i don't think i can ever look at them the same. but the only thing i can do for him now is provide him with the best care that i possibly can, and i am terrified of making any mistakes that could further harm him.

so, please do not be critical or condescending of me; i'm already being horrible to myself, and i was an ignorant child when i first started out. i just want to be better and do right by him going forward, which is why your answers are so so important to me. thank you for understanding and for any advice you can offer about how i'm caring for him. i am doing and will continue to do the very best i can.

i hope you have a great rest of your day/week <3
You've got the wrong idea on several things about diet and husbandry. I'll point these things out, so that you can optimize your care routine.
1. If you bought from Petsmart, the tortoise was likely 10 years old when you got it. They sell wild caught adults and they must be at least 4 inches. Baby Russian hatch at about 15 grams and do not reach 4 inches in 8 or 9 months under any circumstance.
2. Most of this forum is significantly older than you. We are grown ups. We don't need trigger warnings. We can handle reality. You didn't intentionally do harm to your tortoise. Your mistake is forgivable, just don't let it happen again, and you are doing your best to correct it. No one is going to insult or berate you. That would be pointless.
3. Both heat lamps you are using are the wrong types of bulb to be using. You said you read the threads here, but it appears you missed the details about what bulbs to use. Here is a breakdown of the four heating and lighting essentials:
  1. Basking bulb. I use 65 watt incandescent floods from the hardware store. Some people will need bigger, or smaller wattage bulbs. Let your thermometer be your guide. I run them on a timer for about 12 hours and adjust the height to get the correct basking temp under them. I also like to use a flat rock of some sort directly under the bulb. You need to check the temp with a thermometer directly under the bulb and get it to around 95-100F (36-37C).
  2. Ambient heat maintenance. I use ceramic heating elements or radiant heat panels set on thermostats to maintain ambient above 80 degrees day and night for tropical species. In most cases you'd only need day heat for a temperate species like Testudo or DT, as long as your house stays above 60F (15-16C) at night. Some people in colder climates or with larger enclosures will need multiple CHEs or RHPs to spread out enough heat.
  3. Ambient light. I use LEDs for this purpose. Something in the 5000-6500K color range will look the best. Most bulbs at the store are in the 2500K range and they look yellowish. Strip or screw-in LED bulb types are both fine.
  4. UV. If you can get your tortoise outside for an hour 2 or 3 times a week, you won't need indoor UV. In colder climates, get one of the newer HO type fluorescent tubes. Which type will depend on mounting height. 5.0 bulbs make almost no UV. I like the 12% HO bulbs from Arcadia. You need a meter to check this: https://www.solarmeter.com/model65.html A good UV bulb only needs to run for 2-3 hours mid day. You need the basking bulb and the ambient lighting to be on at least 12 hours a day.
4. As long as your house is staying above 50-60ish at night and the tortoise can warm up with a basking lamp the next day, you don't need night heat for an adult Russian tortoise. They need a night time cool down.
5. Don't feed fruit.
6. Russian are not grass eaters. Skip the grass.
7. Carrots are too high in sugar. Skip them.
8. No chunks in the food. They can choke on them. Use a cheese grate for hard things like pumpkin or squash or celery. Don't cut it in to large chunks. You can also finely mince it all up, or just leave it whole and let the tortoise bite off its own chunks.
9. Skip the Fluker pellets. No one here uses or recommends those. Mazuri is good to go.
10. Don't mix calcium powder with pellets. Mazuri is balanced tortoise nutrition. When you add calcium, you upset that balance. Use calcium when feeding calcium deficient foods like grocery store greens.
11. When you do use calcium, mix it all up with the greens. Don't sprinkle it on top like that.
12. Some times scute grow back in some capacity and sometimes they don't no way for us to predict it. Just do your best.
13. Read these two threads all the way through at least twice for the correct care info. All of your questions are welcome.

 

Yvonne G

Old Timer
10 Year Member!
Platinum Tortoise Club
Joined
Jan 23, 2008
Messages
95,407
Location (City and/or State)
Clovis, CA
I was told, at the beginning of my career as a tortoise rescuer, that using Betadine more than once inhibits the new growth, so I only use it once, the first time, then after that I use Chlorhexidine as a cleaner. The silver sulfadine is good.

May we please see pictures of your tortoise?
 

The_Four_Toed_Edward

Well-Known Member
Joined
Apr 6, 2024
Messages
6,305
Location (City and/or State)
Finland
Welcome to the forum!

I wouldn't worry about the humidity too much, as it is hard to get any humidity now that you have to keep your tortoise on towels.
 

zoologymajor

Member
Joined
May 17, 2025
Messages
16
Location (City and/or State)
Tennessee
You've got the wrong idea on several things about diet and husbandry. I'll point these things out, so that you can optimize your care routine.
1. If you bought from Petsmart, the tortoise was likely 10 years old when you got it. They sell wild caught adults and they must be at least 4 inches. Baby Russian hatch at about 15 grams and do not reach 4 inches in 8 or 9 months under any circumstance.
2. Most of this forum is significantly older than you. We are grown ups. We don't need trigger warnings. We can handle reality. You didn't intentionally do harm to your tortoise. Your mistake is forgivable, just don't let it happen again, and you are doing your best to correct it. No one is going to insult or berate you. That would be pointless.
3. Both heat lamps you are using are the wrong types of bulb to be using. You said you read the threads here, but it appears you missed the details about what bulbs to use. Here is a breakdown of the four heating and lighting essentials:
  1. Basking bulb. I use 65 watt incandescent floods from the hardware store. Some people will need bigger, or smaller wattage bulbs. Let your thermometer be your guide. I run them on a timer for about 12 hours and adjust the height to get the correct basking temp under them. I also like to use a flat rock of some sort directly under the bulb. You need to check the temp with a thermometer directly under the bulb and get it to around 95-100F (36-37C).
  2. Ambient heat maintenance. I use ceramic heating elements or radiant heat panels set on thermostats to maintain ambient above 80 degrees day and night for tropical species. In most cases you'd only need day heat for a temperate species like Testudo or DT, as long as your house stays above 60F (15-16C) at night. Some people in colder climates or with larger enclosures will need multiple CHEs or RHPs to spread out enough heat.
  3. Ambient light. I use LEDs for this purpose. Something in the 5000-6500K color range will look the best. Most bulbs at the store are in the 2500K range and they look yellowish. Strip or screw-in LED bulb types are both fine.
  4. UV. If you can get your tortoise outside for an hour 2 or 3 times a week, you won't need indoor UV. In colder climates, get one of the newer HO type fluorescent tubes. Which type will depend on mounting height. 5.0 bulbs make almost no UV. I like the 12% HO bulbs from Arcadia. You need a meter to check this: https://www.solarmeter.com/model65.html A good UV bulb only needs to run for 2-3 hours mid day. You need the basking bulb and the ambient lighting to be on at least 12 hours a day.
4. As long as your house is staying above 50-60ish at night and the tortoise can warm up with a basking lamp the next day, you don't need night heat for an adult Russian tortoise. They need a night time cool down.
5. Don't feed fruit.
6. Russian are not grass eaters. Skip the grass.
7. Carrots are too high in sugar. Skip them.
8. No chunks in the food. They can choke on them. Use a cheese grate for hard things like pumpkin or squash or celery. Don't cut it in to large chunks. You can also finely mince it all up, or just leave it whole and let the tortoise bite off its own chunks.
9. Skip the Fluker pellets. No one here uses or recommends those. Mazuri is good to go.
10. Don't mix calcium powder with pellets. Mazuri is balanced tortoise nutrition. When you add calcium, you upset that balance. Use calcium when feeding calcium deficient foods like grocery store greens.
11. When you do use calcium, mix it all up with the greens. Don't sprinkle it on top like that.
12. Some times scute grow back in some capacity and sometimes they don't no way for us to predict it. Just do your best.
13. Read these two threads all the way through at least twice for the correct care info. All of your questions are welcome.

first, i just want to say thank you. the endless work you do for tortoises in your own life and on this forum is invaluable and hugely appreciated, as is your reply to this post. thank you so much, and i hope you've been able to see at least some amount of positive change in the community as a result of it.

while it is embarrassing to have trusted the pet store people, i am somehow not shocked to learn i was mislead. i just wish i knew how old he was :( they probably said 6-8months old when in reality they had just had him at the store for 6-8months. i feel silly. i've just never looked into raising baby reptiles because i've never wanted to do it, and at 15 i guess i thought they were a credibly source :( it truly saddens me how often they mislead people who don't even realize they're making horrible mistakes.

we can agree to disagree on the ethics of trigger warnings. i personally don't believe it has anything to do with age or level of experience with reality, but rather the simple fact that i'm working under the presumption that people coming to this forum at least somewhat care about tortoises, if not love them dearly, and would find pictures of bad injuries upsetting or disturbing or possibly similar to images of their own potentially traumatic experiences. but i will share some photos nonetheless & tag those who asked to see them :)

here is what he looked like on tuesday and the days prior:

shelldon pre injury 1 of 4.jpg
shelldon pre injury 2 of 4.jpg
shelldon pre injury 3 of 4.jpgshelldon pre injury 4 of 4.jpg

here are the initial injuries (photos taken in vet waiting room):

shelldon forelimb injury.jpg
shelldonl carapace injury.jpg
shelldon plastron injury.jpg

here are the injuries this morning, after i irrigated them with diluted betadine but before applying more silver sulfadiazine cream (though you can still see some leftover from last night):

25 05 18 shelldon forelimbs 1 of 2.jpg
25 05 18 shelldon forelimbs 2 of 2.jpg
25 05 18 shelldon left forelimb 1 of 2.jpg
25 05 18 shelldon left forelimb 2 of 2.jpg
25 05 18 shelldon right forelimb 1 of 3.jpg
25 05 18 shelldon right forelimb 2 of 3.jpg
25 05 18 shelldon right forelimb 3 of 3.jpg
25 05 18 shelldon left hind 1 of 2.jpg
25 05 18 shelldon left hind 2 of 2.jpg
25 05 18 shelldon carapace.jpg

thank you for acknowledging that it wasn't my intention and i'm doing my best. i really appreciate that and needed to hear it.

thank you for the heating/lighting info. i have read the threads, but as i said in the initial post, there is soooooo much conflicting info out there, so it can be really difficult to discern what to actually listen to or who to trust, which is why i figured i could get a more direct consensus for my specific situation with direct questions and context. but that's just to explain/clarify why i am still asking things despite having already read about them; i'm not trying to be argumentative. i appreciate you reiterating this advice and it makes me feel better to know that those are still the right things to do, not just when normally caring for a tortoise, but also when nursing them back to health. i will get the correct bulbs and the meter asap.

i have a clarifying question about the nighttime cool down -- is not okay to give him the option? like, have one side of his enclosure heated and the other side be the normal ambient temperature like you were saying? the vet really stressed that keeping him between 90-95 degrees fahrenheit was important for his immune system as he fights infection and regrows his bones and scales, so i am just asking to make sure that not heating him at night will be okay while he's recovering.

i haven't fed fruit in years and will continue not to :)

i'll skip the grass and carrots and i'm assuming the hay too, and the fluker's, and calcium on the pellets, & i'll mix it rather than sprinkling it on grocery greens -- thank you

i realize i didn't include a scale for the photograph of the cut/chunked food, but those are EXTREMELY finely diced, not large chunks. we're talking like an eighth of an inch. but i definitely don't want him to choke so i will not chop them anymore.

noted about his scutes, thank you

i read the info twice and appreciate it. again, my main reason for asking was because this situation isn't standard care but injury recovery, and i wanted to clarify some things. my main concerning deviations are the fact that the vet recommended using towels as substrate for a while so they can be kept clean and free of anything that could poke into his wounds, so i also can't really bury his dishes into the towels. however what i'm using for his water is short enough that he can still dip his head into it to drink; i've watched him do so. i know you recommend terra cotta saucers. i can switch to those, but again i have no way of burying them for a bit. currently i use a small cookie sheet/tray and a very shallow plastic reptile dish. both are no deeper than a half inch. another clarifying question: you listed 3 options for substrate, but for an outdoor enclosure, will just the ground work? i think that's what you have in your photographs on those threads, but i want to be certain.

thank you for welcoming my questions, and again, i appreciate your help so so much.

@COmtnLady @Yvonne G
 

zoologymajor

Member
Joined
May 17, 2025
Messages
16
Location (City and/or State)
Tennessee
I was told, at the beginning of my career as a tortoise rescuer, that using Betadine more than once inhibits the new growth, so I only use it once, the first time, then after that I use Chlorhexidine as a cleaner. The silver sulfadine is good.

May we please see pictures of your tortoise?
thank you for answering! is "chlorhexidine" the same as "chlorhexidine gluconate" that i can get at walgreens? i'm sorry if this is a silly question, but i just want to be super specific so i don't accidentally do something bad! also, i tagged you in a different reply where i shared photos :)
 

zovick

Well-Known Member
10 Year Member!
Joined
Nov 17, 2013
Messages
5,083
first, i just want to say thank you. the endless work you do for tortoises in your own life and on this forum is invaluable and hugely appreciated, as is your reply to this post. thank you so much, and i hope you've been able to see at least some amount of positive change in the community as a result of it.

while it is embarrassing to have trusted the pet store people, i am somehow not shocked to learn i was mislead. i just wish i knew how old he was :( they probably said 6-8months old when in reality they had just had him at the store for 6-8months. i feel silly. i've just never looked into raising baby reptiles because i've never wanted to do it, and at 15 i guess i thought they were a credibly source :( it truly saddens me how often they mislead people who don't even realize they're making horrible mistakes.

we can agree to disagree on the ethics of trigger warnings. i personally don't believe it has anything to do with age or level of experience with reality, but rather the simple fact that i'm working under the presumption that people coming to this forum at least somewhat care about tortoises, if not love them dearly, and would find pictures of bad injuries upsetting or disturbing or possibly similar to images of their own potentially traumatic experiences. but i will share some photos nonetheless & tag those who asked to see them :)

here is what he looked like on tuesday and the days prior:

View attachment 390722
View attachment 390723
View attachment 390724View attachment 390725

here are the initial injuries (photos taken in vet waiting room):

View attachment 390726
View attachment 390727
View attachment 390728

here are the injuries this morning, after i irrigated them with diluted betadine but before applying more silver sulfadiazine cream (though you can still see some leftover from last night):

View attachment 390729
View attachment 390730
View attachment 390731
View attachment 390732
View attachment 390733
View attachment 390734
View attachment 390735
View attachment 390736
View attachment 390737
View attachment 390738

thank you for acknowledging that it wasn't my intention and i'm doing my best. i really appreciate that and needed to hear it.

thank you for the heating/lighting info. i have read the threads, but as i said in the initial post, there is soooooo much conflicting info out there, so it can be really difficult to discern what to actually listen to or who to trust, which is why i figured i could get a more direct consensus for my specific situation with direct questions and context. but that's just to explain/clarify why i am still asking things despite having already read about them; i'm not trying to be argumentative. i appreciate you reiterating this advice and it makes me feel better to know that those are still the right things to do, not just when normally caring for a tortoise, but also when nursing them back to health. i will get the correct bulbs and the meter asap.

i have a clarifying question about the nighttime cool down -- is not okay to give him the option? like, have one side of his enclosure heated and the other side be the normal ambient temperature like you were saying? the vet really stressed that keeping him between 90-95 degrees fahrenheit was important for his immune system as he fights infection and regrows his bones and scales, so i am just asking to make sure that not heating him at night will be okay while he's recovering.

i haven't fed fruit in years and will continue not to :)

i'll skip the grass and carrots and i'm assuming the hay too, and the fluker's, and calcium on the pellets, & i'll mix it rather than sprinkling it on grocery greens -- thank you

i realize i didn't include a scale for the photograph of the cut/chunked food, but those are EXTREMELY finely diced, not large chunks. we're talking like an eighth of an inch. but i definitely don't want him to choke so i will not chop them anymore.

noted about his scutes, thank you

i read the info twice and appreciate it. again, my main reason for asking was because this situation isn't standard care but injury recovery, and i wanted to clarify some things. my main concerning deviations are the fact that the vet recommended using towels as substrate for a while so they can be kept clean and free of anything that could poke into his wounds, so i also can't really bury his dishes into the towels. however what i'm using for his water is short enough that he can still dip his head into it to drink; i've watched him do so. i know you recommend terra cotta saucers. i can switch to those, but again i have no way of burying them for a bit. currently i use a small cookie sheet/tray and a very shallow plastic reptile dish. both are no deeper than a half inch. another clarifying question: you listed 3 options for substrate, but for an outdoor enclosure, will just the ground work? i think that's what you have in your photographs on those threads, but i want to be certain.

thank you for welcoming my questions, and again, i appreciate your help so so much.

@COmtnLady @Yvonne G
As one who has kept and rescued turtles and tortoises of many species since the 1950's and has seen a great many injured specimens (some MUCH worse than what is depicted in your photos), I can tell you that both scutes and leg scales CAN sometimes grow back. It takes quite a long time as tortoises heal much more slowly than humans and other mammals, but it is possible. Often the scales and scutes will look a bit deformed or abnormal after they have regenerated, but they can come back in some degree. It doesn't always happen, but it is possible.

Turtles and tortoises are very hardy and can survive a great deal of trauma. Your tortoise has had a bad experience, but it was NOT a major traumatic event, so you should consider yourself lucky for that. It is very fortunate that the dogs did not manage to crush or puncture the tortoise's shell and cause much more serious internal injuries.

Don't beat yourself up too much. Just learn from it, and move forward.

Good luck with the treatment and your academic career.
 

Yvonne G

Old Timer
10 Year Member!
Platinum Tortoise Club
Joined
Jan 23, 2008
Messages
95,407
Location (City and/or State)
Clovis, CA
thank you for answering! is "chlorhexidine" the same as "chlorhexidine gluconate" that i can get at walgreens? i'm sorry if this is a silly question, but i just want to be super specific so i don't accidentally do something bad! also, i tagged you in a different reply where i shared photos :)
Yes. It has many uses, but also to clean wounds.

The fact that the keratin has been scraped off the shell really is minor and not painful. I know this is going to be hard to understand, but eventually, over a very long period of time, new bone and keratin is going to grow UNDER that existing exposed bone. And being dead, that exposed bone stays the size it is, while the new bone under it is growing larger, as the tortoise grows. This eventually causes the existing dead bone to raise up and eventually pop off, exposing the new keratin underneath. And because this new keratin grew all at once over time and not in stages like the existing keratin grew, it's not going to be the same scute type pattern as the original shell. When I say over time, I mean years. I have seen this with my own eyes. It's a wonder of nature.

The only thing I see that's worrisome is the raw wounds on the legs.
 

Tom

The Dog Trainer
10 Year Member!
Platinum Tortoise Club
Joined
Jan 9, 2010
Messages
68,561
Location (City and/or State)
Southern California
i have a clarifying question about the nighttime cool down -- is not okay to give him the option? like, have one side of his enclosure heated and the other side be the normal ambient temperature like you were saying? the vet really stressed that keeping him between 90-95 degrees fahrenheit was important for his immune system as he fights infection and regrows his bones and scales, so i am just asking to make sure that not heating him at night will be okay while he's recovering.
95 directly under the basking lamp is necessary and good. It should be warm like that all day long and every day. But it doesn't need to be warm at night. A night time cooldown is necessary and beneficial for temperate species.

I don't see any harm in offering the tortoise the choice of a warmer night area or a cooler night area, but they will usually choose where to sleep based on other factors and not warmth.
 

zoologymajor

Member
Joined
May 17, 2025
Messages
16
Location (City and/or State)
Tennessee
Yes. It has many uses, but also to clean wounds.

The fact that the keratin has been scraped off the shell really is minor and not painful. I know this is going to be hard to understand, but eventually, over a very long period of time, new bone and keratin is going to grow UNDER that existing exposed bone. And being dead, that exposed bone stays the size it is, while the new bone under it is growing larger, as the tortoise grows. This eventually causes the existing dead bone to raise up and eventually pop off, exposing the new keratin underneath. And because this new keratin grew all at once over time and not in stages like the existing keratin grew, it's not going to be the same scute type pattern as the original shell. When I say over time, I mean years. I have seen this with my own eyes. It's a wonder of nature.

The only thing I see that's worrisome is the raw wounds on the legs.
thank you for answering! don't worry, i did know how the regrowth works, but i still really appreciate you explaining anyways in case i didn't. that's good to know that his keratin will come back. even without his scute pattern, i will always find him beautiful :)
 

zoologymajor

Member
Joined
May 17, 2025
Messages
16
Location (City and/or State)
Tennessee
95 directly under the basking lamp is necessary and good. It should be warm like that all day long and every day. But it doesn't need to be warm at night. A night time cooldown is necessary and beneficial for temperate species.

I don't see any harm in offering the tortoise the choice of a warmer night area or a cooler night area, but they will usually choose where to sleep based on other factors and not warmth.
thank you! i will try giving him the option, but i will lower the "warm option" to maybe 80-85 instead of 90 to at least be more of a difference from his daytime temps.
 

zoologymajor

Member
Joined
May 17, 2025
Messages
16
Location (City and/or State)
Tennessee
hey everyone, this is my first time posting here, so please bear with me! i have some pretty specific questions about caring for my juvenile russian tortoise, and i've spent hours reading threads on here, from the pinned care sheets to hyper-specific situational questions, yet i'm still a bit confused. i've also searched the web some, but lots of people here say that popular online advice can actually be really harmful and outdated, so i wanted to ask people with credible knowledge and experience (i also asked some questions in r/tortoise, but they sent me here hehe).

i will give some brief info at the beginning, list my questions, and then provide further backstory/context at the end if you want to read that part. thank you so much in advance for your help <3

my tortoise is a ~5-to-6-year-old juvenile male russian about 5 inches in diameter living in middle tennessee. he spent most of his life indoors, and then the past year or so in an enclosure in the garage, and then last weekend he moved into an outdoor enclosure i built for him. however, he suffered an injury and is now back in his garage enclosure while he's healing after visiting an exotic vet. TRIGGER WARNING: the backstory/context below my questions contains information about his injury and how he got it, so if you don't want to read about that part, please skip it.

question 1: what uva/uvb is best for him? i know he needs uvb, and it wasn't an issue when he got plenty of sunlight, but now i want to make sure it's absolutely perfect to help his healing process go as well as it can while he's indoors. some places have info about uva/uvb, but i've seen on this forum that uva is just a marketing scheme??? but also, uva and uvb are two different wavelengths, so i'm confused how that's a marketing scheme? anyways, this is the bulb/lamp he currently has, with 50 watts and 120 volts: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0DZBK2KQG?tag=exoticpetnetw-20 but it doesn't say anywhere on the listing or the packaging what % uva/uvb it is. he also has this 50 watt halogen basking bulb: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000KHBT12?tag=exoticpetnetw-20 in a ceramic lamp, so together they make the warm side 90-100 degrees farenheit, and the vet said 90-95 was best for his immune system right now (lowering one to increase the temperature would reduce the % of his enclosure covered by light, and the vet said around 70% of the enclosure should be covered by the lamp, so i am just using both of them together for right now). then, at night, he has this non-light-emitting heating lamp: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0DR2HPR9P?tag=exoticpetnetw-20 . am i doing okay with heating/lighting? humidity isn't an issue except for a few weeks of the year because it's tennessee and he's not in air conditioning. the vet said not to let it fall below 40%, which it almost never does anyways, but i have one of my mom's old essential oil diffusers that i just put water in for when it gets too try, and i just put it next to/in/right above his enclosure. right now it's consistently between 60-80% humidity. but also, he's a desert tortoise, so that's a bit confusing to me as well. sorry this question ended up being much more of a wall of text than i meant for it to be!!!

question 2: are there any tricks to getting him to eat/how much is normal for him to eat? he's not really been eating the past few days which is concerning on its own but also problematic because his medicine is recommended to be taken with food. i've offered him pellets ( https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002DHPBC?tag=exoticpetnetw-20 and https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00OV0WH74?tag=exoticpetnetw-20 ), foraged weeds (plantain, clover, dandelion, and fescue, with flowers, leaves, and stems, all cut up into small pieces and rinsed in water), and veggies cut up into tiny bits and rinsed in water (celery stems and leaves, cucumber, and baby carrots), all with supplements sprinkled over top ( https://www.amazon.com/dp/B094DB6F63?tag=exoticpetnetw-20 and this one my vet sold me: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0D82DPB1D?tag=exoticpetnetw-20 ), but i've yet to see him eat any of it or notice any of it gone. he's walked over it, looked at it, maybe even opened and closed his mouth, but not eaten. i've read that offering him sugary fruits could work but that it's really bad for him so i'm scared to do that. i have seen him take long drinks of water, though. over the years, i've seen him eat, but a very little bit at a time, which made sense to me since he's so small, but i want to make sure that's normal. i've fed him lettuce, cabbage, kale, and spinach before (in moderation since i know those aren't great for them), and he ate those, but, again, i don't want to give him anything that could be bad for him right now. i've offered him cut-up strawberry and watermelon in the past too but he wasn't interested. i just really want him to eat and would rather him not have to go through the potential trauma of a feeding tube :(

question 3: is there any way or possibility at all to promote scute regeneration? i've read that they can grow back but also that they can't. the vet said in his experience they never do, but that my baby at least has his youth going for him. so is there anything you guys know of that i could do to increase the chance that they might grow back? and if they don't, is there something i can do for him or give to him to stand in for the scutes? kind of like a disability aid? because i know scutes are an important protective keratin layer for tortoises, so it seems like it would be problematic for him to be missing any, but they may not grow back on their own??

okay, i'm sorry if this is too long to read, i just want to give you guys all the context you may need to answer these because your help means the world to me :) so here's some more background:

i got my tortoise from a petsmart or petco (i don't remember which) in florida when i was 15 in 2020. i know that's a horrible place to get tortoises and they don't know much about them, and i definitely regret how i cared for him in those first few months, but i can't change it. all i can control is the future, and every time i learn something i could be doing better, i change. anyways, they didn't know how old he was or what sex he was. they guessed about 6-8 months and said i'd have to wait till he was older to sex him. i did some research, and based on the v-shape of his anal scutes and pointiness of his tail, i'm pretty sure he's male (and the vet agreed).

he's had an indoor enclosure for the past 1-2 years made of solid wood walls/flooring so he can't see through it or climb out. it's 4 feet by 2 feet, which is i know is less than the minimum 8 feet by 4 feet, but it was the best i could do for him at the time. there was a reptile carpet in the bottom covered by reptile substrate and pellets. he had a rock for basking on, shallow food and water dishes, and some enrichments/decorations like a little bridge thingy and half of a fake log thing (sorry idk the technical terms for these lol).

but i learned more and knew he needed better, and that, ultimately, outdoors is ideal, so i built him an outdoor enclosure. it's about 23 feet by 12 feet with a 1-foot dig guard around the perimeter made of metal roofing sheets. the above-ground perimeter is made of cinder blocks on three sides and the side of my house on the fourth, which is made of brick. i also created a deep-shade hide for him against the side of my house using more of those metal sheets across the top, weighed down with bricks, and i closed in either side with bricks and the opening with more metal sheets, leaving a wide space for him to get inside without bumping the metal or the cinder blocks. there are 3 large bushes inside it and a couple trees outside of the enclosure that provide shade over it, but still a couple gaps for direct sunlight where i put several large rocks. there was already fescue growing there, and i planted some clover and dandelion from elsewhere in the yard. i put 3 different water dishes and his pellets + supplements in his food dish, but again he had some plants in there he could forage on. the substrate is just the ground. i didn't cover the enclosure for two reasons. 1. the area around my property has lots of woods and fields for predators flying overhead to hunt in, and he wouldn't be visible from above due to the large trees over his enclosure and 2. his enclosure is right next to our outdoor dog pen (the cinder blocks were about half a foot away from the dogs' fence, which is made of square wire mesh nailed to wooden posts) where we have a medium-sized dog and 2 large dogs, all of which thoroughly scare off any nearby birds, rabbits, etc.

[POTENTIALLY TRIGGERING CONTENT BEGINS]

he honestly seemed extremely happy with his new home and never tried to escape that i saw. i checked on him often for the first couple of days to make sure he was okay. then, on wednesday, i discovered one of the corner cinderblocks had been moved, and the gap was large enough for him to escape. i couldn't find him anywhere in his enclosure. i know he's strong, but there's no way he could move those cinder blocks, and they hadn't budged for those first days, so i honestly had no clue this was a possibility. my parents helped me look all over for him, and to my horror, my dad found him in the dog pen. he had abrasions to his forelimbs with a couple of missing scales, and most of the scutes on his carapace and plastron were gone but fortunately with no punctures into his shell.

[POTENTIALLY TRIGGERING CONTENT ENDS]

i immediately soaked him in warm water and prepared to disinfect the wounds, but my mom (a nurse and far more rational than i was in the moment) helped me find an urgent care vet i could take him to. the experience wasn't great because it wasn't an exotic vet, but they at least cleaned his wounds, injected an antibiotic, applied some silver sulfadiazine cream, and sent me home with some anti-inflammatory oral meds.

the next day, i took him to the exotic vet i mentioned throughout this post, and he further cleaned the wounds, stitched his forelimbs, and gave me more of the anti-inflammatory medication plus a different kind of anti-inflammatory medicine, antibiotics, silver sulfadiazine cream, and a new supplement. he recommended that i change his substrate to some towels so i can keep them clean and remove any potentially sharp/pokey substrate and said the next couple of weeks would be critical for preventing inflection, and then it would take several months or even years for his shell to heal. he showed me some photographs of rehabilitated tortoises and said that his coloration would come back but likely not his scutes. he also recommended that i keep his enclosure between 90-95 degrees fahrenheit for his immune system and to not let the humidity drop below 40%. he said if he continued to not eat, he'd need a feeding tube.

he has a checkup with the vet in a couple of weeks. once the vet clears that infection and any potential pokes aren't a concern anymore, i plan to move him back into his outdoor enclosure with the non-light-emitting heat lamp in his hide, the cinder blocks reinforced, metal sheets lining the dogs' enclosure so they can't see or reach him, and some sort of covering over it (probably chicken wire).

now, i know this story is very sad, and i feel horrible. my heart is truly broken. i can't stop feeling like it was my fault, even though there's no way i could've known that the dogs could get to him with the information and prior experience i was working with. i've been crying for days over how much pain he must be in and how scared he must've been. i've honestly always felt more deeply for animals than i even do for people (i've spent my life caring for dogs, cats, horses, fish, etc. and am currently entering my senior year in college as a zoology major). i know he'll never be the same. neither will i. the dogs may not have known any better, but i don't think i can ever look at them the same. but the only thing i can do for him now is provide him with the best care that i possibly can, and i am terrified of making any mistakes that could further harm him.

so, please do not be critical or condescending of me; i'm already being horrible to myself, and i was an ignorant child when i first started out. i just want to be better and do right by him going forward, which is why your answers are so so important to me. thank you for understanding and for any advice you can offer about how i'm caring for him. i am doing and will continue to do the very best i can.

i hope you have a great rest of your day/week <3
i have an update about this and another question

chlorhexidine was suggested over diluted betadine because the latter could inhibit tissue regrowth, but i double-checked with my vet, and they said if it got in his eye it could blind him. this is very dangerous because irrigating his forelimbs is right next to his face, and i just don't want to take that risk, even if it's less than ideal. i've got a humidifier going for him and all his temps and humidity levels have looked good so far. he's still stable and mobile.

i also discovered a parasitic infection. i've since moved him inside with all fresh, new, clean materials and covered up his box with a playpen so my cat can't get to him. i've also taken the rest of the week (at least) remote from work so i can keep checking on him and make sure my cat doesn't mess with his area at all. he's at the vet right now getting sedation, suction, scoped, x-rays, and a new oral medication that they said is an antibiotic for anaerobic bacteria but can also stimulate appetite (he still hasn't eaten). i can send pics and more details about the drug when he's finished with the vet if that's helpful.

my question for you all is about food. i asked my vet if there was anything liquid i could try with the syringe. he explained how his glottis works and said that as long as it's liquid and he's alert (meaning able to open and close his glottis) it should be fine. he also said i could try baby food. what do you all think about this? any ideas? could i try grinding up his mazuri pellets maybe into some water or something? if he's still not eating by next week he'll need a feeding tube which of course i'll do if he needs it but it's just more stress for this baby. remember, i'm not asking about ideal diet or long-term feeding, just something for the immediate future to get any amount of safe nutrients into his system.

thank you all again for your help.
 

The_Four_Toed_Edward

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i also discovered a parasitic infection.
Did you have a fecal sample tested for parasites?
my question for you all is about food. i asked my vet if there was anything liquid i could try with the syringe. he explained how his glottis works and said that as long as it's liquid and he's alert (meaning able to open and close his glottis) it should be fine. he also said i could try baby food. what do you all think about this? any ideas? could i try grinding up his mazuri pellets maybe into some water or something? if he's still not eating by next week he'll need a feeding tube which of course i'll do if he needs it but it's just more stress for this baby. remember, i'm not asking about ideal diet or long-term feeding, just something for the immediate future to get any amount of safe nutrients into his system.
I have read about Oxbow Critical care Herbivore being used for tube feeding, I wonder how they differ from crushing up some pellets. Hopefully others will chime in about liquid food alternatives.
 

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